Categories
The Brinian

Trumland Farm

This painting of Trumland farm could be by John Logie, and though it is not signed it is in his style.
He was the butler at Trumland House, and was an accomplished artist and photographer.

Trumland Farm is first mentioned in old parish records as being occupied by ‘John of Trimland’ in 1503. In the 1595 Rental Trumland was skatted as a 2d. land, lying on either side of the Burn of Trumland, which flows down from the Hass of Trumland, on the southern slopes of the hills of Blotchniefiold and Knitchin. Later tenants were named as Magnus Trumbland, between 1653 and 1655, William Miller in 1702, Magnus Bancks, in 1706, and James Banks between 1737 and 1774.

In the 1840’s Trumland was farmed by Peter Yorston. He originally lived at Oldman, Sourin, and in 1813 at Corse, Frotoft, he married Rebecca Craigie, daughter of Mitchell Craigie and Rebekah Marwick of Hullion. They had three children; Peter, was born on May 8th 1814; Mary, on July 23rd 1816; and Ann, who was born on January 19th 1823.

Another tenant at Trumland at this time was James Yorston, who was in his 80’s. His son, also called James, farmed the land alongside Peter Yorston, but to my knowledge they were not directly related.

By the time the census of 1851 was carried out James Yorston and his family had left Rousay. Peter Yorston had died and his widow Rebecca lived at Bare Braes, a small croft above Cogar, with her daughter Ann, who by then was a 27-year-old straw plaiter.

Robert Scarth was the notorious factor of George William Traill’s Rousay estate and it was he who was the architect of the clearance of the Quandale crofters after the harvest of 1845. These clearances occurred in two phases: 1845-48, and 1855-59, by which time the cottars finally lost residual rights to keep animals and cultivate land.

The farm at Trumland had been taken over by Robert Scarth’s son George, a 30-year-old farmer from Kirkwall, paying an annual rent of £39 12s 3d, with the interest on improvements added. He lived there with his Orphir-born wife Catherine Robertson, sons Robert (6) and James (3), who were born in Firth, and 8-month-old daughter Catherine. Also living at Trumland at this time were farm labourers John Shearer (22) from Stronsay, and 19-year-old James Inkster, housekeeper Mary Craigie, who was 24 years old, and John Johnston, a 13-year-old herd.

By the time of the next census, 1861, George and Catherine had had another four children, John, George, Robina, and Thomas. George was farming 70 acres of land at Trumland, but this had increased to 92 by 1871. George Scarth retired as factor in 1873 – and after that things were different at Trumland. Rent arrears hardly existed under Scarth, despite a steady increase in rent, but he saw to it that tenants managed to pay their dues with relative ease. Very soon after his retirement rents increased rapidly between 1873 and 1883. Robert Scarth’s son-in-law John MacRae acted as factor during the first three years of this period and was very unpopular with the Rousay crofters. He was also Orkney’s Procurator Fiscal and the laird, General Burroughs’ personal lawyer, which didn’t help matters much either.

In the 1870’s Burroughs spent £2,608 on Trumland farm, but despite this ambitious programme of building, draining, reclaiming, and fencing, there was never a time when the farm operated at a profit as long as it was under Burroughs’ management. The loss on Trumland Farm was regularly about £180 a year. He spent a further £1,320 on non-agricultural improvements, largely houses for his servants, including his yacht-master, and a cottage for the drill sergeant of the Rousay Volunteers. In 1875 a new resident factor was employed to manage the estate. He was George Murrison and he and his wife Mary lived at Viera Lodge.

The census of 1881 reveals no less than five families living and working on the Trumland estate. The first of these was Charles Johnston, his wife Ann Harrold, and their four children. Charles was the son of John Johnston, Brinian, and Elizabeth Reid, Pow, Westside. Charles’s wife Ann was the daughter of James Harrold of Boray, Gairsay, and his first wife Isabella Gibson of Langskaill.

Farm labourer James Logie was employed as a farm labourer at Trumland at this time. He was the son of John Logie, Geo, Westness, and Mary Craigie, Whome, and he was born in June 1829. He was married to Betsy Gibson, daughter of Alexander Gibson and Isabel Marwick, and she was born in June 1823 when the family were living at Stennisgorn, Wasbister.

Note the cottage to the right of the farm buildings at Trumland – known as Dishans

36-year-old John Manson was employed as Trumland’s grieve. In those days a farm’s grieve held the responsibility of managing the farm, and was mainly engaged in supervision and allocation of duties; he would also superintend the work of agricultural labourers, e.g., carters, cowman; and was at liberty to buy and sell produce and equipment on the laird’s behalf. John was from Watten, Caithness, as was his wife Alexandrina. They had five children at that time, Sidney, John, Duncan, Donald, and Jessie. Under the same roof were four farm workers – James Marwick (24), Donald Allan (22), Mary Marwick (20), who were farm servants, and 20-year-old Mary Leask, from Stenness, who was a dairymaid.

By 1891 Trumland Farm had a manager – 47-year-old Peter Swanson from Thurso. His wife Margaret Manson was from Canisbay, and with them were their children; George, a fifteen-year-old apprentice joiner, scholars John, Peter, Catherine and William. Under another roof at the farm were Barbara Rosie, a 33-year-old dairymaid from Burray; William Leask from Kirkwall, who was employed as a farm servant; and Mary Marwick, a 32-year-old general servant.

Living at the Old Mill at this time were farm servant John Cutt and his wife Mary Craigie – and general labourer James Logie and his wife Betsy Gibson.

A John Logie photograph taken at the entrance to Trumland Farm,
with part of the cottage of Dishans to the right

Dishans was the name of a cottage on the left of the track down to Trumland farmhouse. Little or nothing is known of it – but it could well have been named after its occupants – Mr and Mrs Dishan! The 1901 census tells of crofter James Dishan [52] from Evie and his wife Christina [53] of Westray living at West Craye, Sourin. By the time the 1911 census was carried out Christina was a ‘ploughman’s widow’, living at Gue, Westness. I’m guessing James was employed on the farm and this is where he and Christina lived during that time.

Ploughing at The Goard of Trumland c1908
Shearing sheep on the farm c1900
A carefully composed photo by John Logie in one of the fields above Trumland farmhouse

Between 1894 and 1900 David Wood was paying an annual rent of £110 at Trumland farm. Come the census of 1901 the resident farmer was 26-year-old Hamilton Hebden Horne [known as Hamish] from Warsetter, Sanday. He was the son of farm factor Adam Horne and Robina Strong. On November 23rd 1900 he married 29-year-old school teacher Betsy Ann Marwick, daughter of carpenter Hugh Marwick and Lydia Gibson, Guidall, Sourin. Under the same roof lived Margaret Louttit, a 24-year-old domestic servant, and two farm servants, Donald Robson (16), and James Inkster (24). The Old Mill was occupied by 42-year-old ploughman John Shearer, who was born in Stronsay, and his wife Catherine (39) was from Sandwick. They had six children: Catherine, at that time a 16-year-old domestic servant, Janet (9), Eliza (7), and Peter (5) who were all at school, and 2-year-old William, and Violet, who was just 2 weeks old when the census was carried out.

Rousay ploughing match in the pier field, Trumland Farm

Ten years on [1911] and 67-year-old widow Eliza Craigie from Evie was head of the household at Trumland, and registered as farmer/employer on the census return. With her was her unmarried 27-year-old daughter, a domestic worker, Hugh Marwick, a 23-year-old ploughman, and 15-year-old Tom Marwick, who was employed as a cattleman. Under another roof lived the Robertson family. 42-year-old William Robertson from Sandwick was the farm’s foreman. With him was his wife Isabella and 12-year-old son James. Four-year-old nephew George Wards was visiting at the time.

Frederick Traill Inkster moved from his father Hugh’s farm at Westness to farm land at Furse and Innister. He married Isabella Craigie, daughter of James Craigie, Claybank, and Isabella Kirkness, Quoyostray. They eventually moved from Wasbister to take over the tenancy of Trumland Home Farm in the early 1900s. When Frederick retired from farming he and Isabella took up residency at Greenfield, between the farm and the pier – that house’s name being the same as that of the farm in Shetland where Frederick was born in September 1868.

1915-16 valuation roll for the Parish of Rousay, showing details for, among other properties, Trumland Farm

In 1922 Trumland Farm was occupied by James Halcro Johnston, his wife Margaret Ritch, and children Robert, James William, & Violet. James was born at Crook, Rendall, in June 1880, the son of farmer Jacob Johnston and Ann Wood who had married in Rousay in December 1875. James & Margaret [pictured below] married in February 1905. She was the daughter of farmer William Ritch, Orquil, Rendall, and Jemima Firth.

Their son James William was well-respected throughout the farming industry. Part of his obituary in the Sunday Herald newspaper, dated September 2001, give us an insight:-

Retired farmer and poultry expert James Johnston, 94, farmed at Newton of Fintray, near Aberdeen, for more than 50 years.

Orkney-born Mr Johnston – known to his relatives in the Orkney tradition as James-William and to his friends as Jimmy – hit the headlines in 1951 when his cross-bred heifer, Kilmeny, won the butchers’ cattle championship at the Scottish National Fatstock Show in Edinburgh and went on to win the reserve supreme championship at the Royal Smithfield Show at Earls Court, London.

He was born in 1907 in a small, two-roomed cottage on the farm of Crook, Rendall, Orkney, where his family had been tenants since 1840, and moved to Trumland on the island of Rousay in 1922 when his father took on the Home Farm. Despite colour blindness, he was naturally artistic and in his younger days painted watercolours which still hang in the homes of friends and family…..

Archer Clouston atop 1st haystack built of square bales at Trumland farm 1958
Trumland farm house & cottage…
…and the Old Mill, photographed in 1994


[All black & white images are courtesy of Tommy Gibson]

Categories
Frotoft

Frotoft Map

Frotoft c1885

Categories
Westside

Midhowe Broch and Cairn

Rousay abounds in prehistoric sites of archaeological interest, with over 100 recorded so far. It is likely that some have been lost forever by farming operations while others lie beneath the soil still hidden from sight. Less than a third of those on record have been examined through either complete or partial excavation. The variety of structures found include brochs, burial cairns, standing stones, Norse burial cists, earth-houses, burnt mounds or knowes, and Celtic chapels. The two best known and most visited of Rousay’s ancient monuments stand close to of each other on the Westside shoreline. They are the Midhowe Broch and the Midhowe Stalled Cairn.

Constructed and used sometime between 200BC and 200AD, on first glance the broch at Midhowe would appear to have been built with defence in mind. Standing on a promontory formed by two geos, the broch is protected on one side by the sea and on the landward side by a stone rampart and ditch. This massive rampart is built in an arc between the two geos and effectively cuts the site off from the land.

Although there is no doubt that these outward defences would have looked impressive in their heyday, it may be that they were merely built for dramatic effect – the southern end of the rampart stops short of the geo and therefore leaves a ledge on the rock face by which a “visitor” could have easily access the promontory.

Like the Broch of Gurness on the Mainland coast almost opposite, Midhowe was surrounded by a group of external buildings but these were probably from a much later date when the need for defence was not as important. Coastal erosion, a problem for all shore sites such as Midhowe, has greatly damaged the remains of these outhouses

The remains of the broch’s circular wall stand to a height of approximately four metres and within the structure the general layout of the ground floor has been remarkably well-preserved.

Large slabs of local flagstone were used to divide the interior (diameter 9.6 metres) into two smaller, semi-circular rooms that were then further divided into smaller cells each with its own hearth and water-tank. Water was supplied from a spring that flowed up through a crack in the rocks and during the excavations, it was written that the main storage tank retained water which: “remained clear and drinkable all the years the work of excavation was going on.”

Midhowe’s broch structure is interesting in that it had a ground floor gallery built into the walls and as such differs from the normal solid walled brochs found in the islands.

This hollow base was probably not a good idea because at some point during its occupation, the broch’s gallery had to be blocked and filled in when the walls threatened to collapse. A projecting ledge, about three metres (11 feet) up would have at one time supported a timber first floor.

Perhaps the most interesting thing about Midhowe is the artefacts found within during excavation. The majority of these were the normal domestic items as you would expect to find on such a site – tools, whetstones, quern-stones etc. However, the Midhowe Broch yielded a few surprises as well. Among the items uncovered were the remains of a bronze ladle and some shards of pottery. These items had a definite Roman origin and as Orkney was well away from the areas of Roman control, they must either have been acquired as gifts or through trading or raiding excursions south.

The discovery of bronze jewellery on site also hints at the wealth and status of the family unit that lived at Midhowe. Archaeological evidence indicates that at some time a bronze-worker was based at the site but the small quantity of debris uncovered may simply mean that this craftsman was a travelling artisan.

The broch, a fortified and protected structure, was built as a place that could be retreated to in times of danger. It was excavated in the early 1930s and it was at that time also that the protective seawall was constructed in front of it.

Built by local stonemason Stanley Gibson, with assistance from Peemo Smith and Willie Grieve, this semi-circular seawall is a remarkable structure of five-inch thick slabs of rock set on edge on the rocky foreshore like giant books on a shelf. It slopes inwards for most of its height and outwards for the topmost two feet. Both the broch itself and this seawall rampart, built to protect it from the ferocity of the heavy seas that strike this side of the island, bear witness to the skill and craftsmanship of Orkney stonemasons working on the same site 2,500 years apart.

A stone’s throw from the broch is the stalled cairn, a burial place dating back about 5,000 years to the time of the Stone Age people. When it was excavated in the early 1930s it was found to be a building over 100 feet long and over 40 feet in width. The walls are a massive 18 feet thick leaving the interior as a long narrow chamber only a little over seven feet wide and varying in height from four to seven feet.

Down each side of a narrow central passage the chamber is divided into 12 compartments by flag-stones set on edge, giving an appearance very similar to that of a cow byre. It was in these compartments or stalls that the remains of 25 bodies were found, all on one side of the passageway. The bones of some animals and birds were also found.

This stalled cairn was considered so important a find that a stone building with overhead lighting and an overhead viewing gangway was erected over it to protect it from further decline.

Categories
Quandale

Quandale

Quandale and Westness in Rousay were the only places in Orkney to suffer major clearances, firstly in 1845 and again between 1855 and 1859. Quandale was renowned for being one of the best corn-growing areas in the Northern Isles, but the laird, George William Traill, thought that sheep would be more profitable.

After the harvest of 1845 he evicted the 215 people and destroyed their farmsteads as part of the modernisation of his Westness estate. Some crofters were found dwellings else-where in Rousay, some became landless labourers, while others left the island.

Traill’s successor was General Sir Frederick William Traill Burroughs. He created such difficulties for the island’s crofters that he gained the reputation as the worst landlord in Orkney and was known as the ‘Little General.’

Conflict came with the visit of the Royal Commission whose findings were to lead to the Crofters Act. Burroughs evicted those tenants who gave evidence to the Commission, and with tensions running high a gunboat was sent to keep the peace.

Burroughs would have driven every crofter from his estate had the Crofters Act prevented him from doing so, the crofters having challenged the laird’s right to control the social and economic life of the island.

When Burroughs arrived to make his home in Rousay, John Gibson of Langskaill, as tenant of the largest farm, said, in his speech of welcome, “No connection between man and man ought to be more carefully guarded than that betwixt landlord and tenant…..” It was exactly this relationship which went disastrously wrong in Rousay.

Even after 35 years’ residence in Rousay, Burroughs remained a curiously alien figure. He might have owned the island but he never belonged to it. Ownership was important to him, but he had originally wanted more than that. Part of his ideal had been to settle into the community and become part of it. Money could buy ownership, but belonging – that close identification with a place and its people – was a more difficult matter. It was ownership and the gulf it created between laird and tenant, which made belonging impossible.

Today in Quandale the pattern of houses and fields can still be seen and shows the complicated system of runrigs previously used to divide up the land, a broad and bare semi-circular depression facing the open sea. In westerly gales the full force of the Atlantic breaks along a line of low cliffs and sheets of salt spray are carried hundreds of yards inland; the crofters of old often complaining that their corn suffered badly from ‘sea gust.’ This deserted community is now home for some of Rousay’s most rare and beautiful flowers and birds.

Categories
Wasbister

Blackhammer

Blackhammer is a croft high up on the hillside in Wasbister. In 1851 it was occupied by Henry Craigie and his family. Henry, born c.1798, was the second son of Hugh Craigie and Janet Marwick of Quoygray. In 1815 he married 19-year-old Mary Craigie of Saviskaill. The 1851 census describes Henry as a 73-year-old pauper, formerly a farmer. Living with him and his wife were two of their children, 29-year-old son James, who worked as an agricultural labourer and fisherman, and 24-year-old daughter Betsy, who also worked on the land. The annual rent was 10s.

The familiar whitewashed gable end of Blackhammer – and Kirkgate below

Living at this time in Lower Blackhammer, later called the Manse, was the Louttit family, 72-year-old stonemason Alexander, his wife, 55-year-old Janet Craigie, 28-year-old son Edward, and 15-year-old daughter Betsy, both of whom were agricultural labourers. Edward Louttit was expelled from Rousay by the laird for taking seagull eggs from the Lobust. He went to live in Stronsay.

Further down the hill at Kirkgate was the Pearson family. James Pearson and Mary Leonard were a 40-year-old couple with seven children.

The census of 1871 reveals that Henry Craigie had died and the head of the Blackhammer household was his youngest son John, born on January 2nd1837. John’s mother Mary was now in her 78th year, and his sister Betsy, 44-years-old and still unmarried, was housekeeper, while he himself was a fisherman. In 1873 John paid an annual rent of £1 10s. for the 12.2 acres of land at Blackhammer.

Blackhammer in 1975 – before the middle and upper houses were modernised

Lower Blackhammer was still occupied by Alexander Louttit, then 95-years-old and described as a farmer of six acres, and his wife Janet, who was then 76. Daughter Barbara, 42-years-old and unmarried, was employed as an agricultural labourer, and her illegitimate 18-year-old son William Louttit, earned money as an apprentice shoemaker. In 1873 the extent of the land at the Manse covered 15.3 acres, for which Barbara Louttit paid an annual rent of £1.

Moonrise over Blackhammer – just after 9pm on a May evening

Mary Craigie, a 52-year-old widow, lived at Upper Kirkgate at this time and earned a living as a stocking knitter.

In 1891, John Craigie still lived at Blackhammer, his mother Mary having died there in 1873. John married Mary Sinclair in 1883 and they had two children; Mary, born on October 26th 1884, and Jemima Janet, born on May 27th 1886. Mary Sinclair was the daughter of Peter Sinclair and Janet Louttit of Deerness, and she was born in 1846. On November 18th 1869 she had a son, James Robertson, whose father was James Robertson, a servant at Scockness. On October 17th 1872 she had a daughter, Alexina Louttit Sinclair. Alexina lived at Blackhammer and before she was married she had a son, James Craigie Inkster Sinclair, born on October 19th 1904. She later married the father, David Pearson Inkster, a blacksmith, and they went to Canada taking James Sinclair with them. By that time he was known as James Inkster, but he died in 1915. They had two other children in Hamilton, Ontario, John William, born on March 18th 1915, and Mary Margaret, born on February 4th 1917.

At Lower Blackhammer, then called the Manse, Alexander and Janet Louttit had passed away, but their daughter Barbara still lived there, now 65 years old and described as a ‘small farmer.’ Also at the Manse was 37-year-old washerwoman Margaret Gibson, widow of William Louttit of Maybank, Wasbister, who had passed away in 1884. She was known as Maggie o’ Maybank and they had three children, Maggie Jessie, born in 1877, Isabella, born in 1878, and William, born in 1882.

In later years Blackhammer’s notoriety spread far and wide, for when occupant Maggie Watson decided to leave Rousay her nearest neighbour Jim o’ Deithe composed a polka to record the event. The tune is performed to this day by many Orcadian musicians – Maggie Watson’s Farewell to Blackhammer.


Categories
History

Vanished Houses in Rousay

A list of ‘vanished’ houses in Rousay
compiled by Tommy Gibson

WASBISTER [Wester, Wesder]

Hammerbelow Innister
GornW. of Hammer
Hammergorn?
Mully?
Meron Meeronbelow Falquoy
Neagerditto
Lows Houseditto
Lerquoy?
Maybankfront of School
Brokislandon Saviskaill
Bucket?
BatycrasE. side Head of Saviskaill
Gruthin GrithinN.W. Head of Saviskaill
SacquoyW. of Headland
Rigersland?
Bare Braesabove Cogar
Cornquoy?
Easter LeeS.E. Langskaill
Upper LeeThe Leean
Flottyabove Langskaill
Gateside?
Gue, Goo, Upperabove Turbitail
Heather Hall?
Hillhouse?
Howatoftnear Saviskaill
NuggleW. Wester Hill
Stack Back?
Fealha?
Knockhall?
Quoytarsabreck?
South Neagar?
Powienear White Meadows
Toisterburn?
Newark?
Quoy Garson?
Nether Breckan?
Housequoy?
Oot o the Toon?
Grudwik?
Larksquoy?
Tercabreeck?
Lower BrigadayE. of the Loch
Upper Brigadayabove road

FROTOFT [Frotet, Froted] and BRINIAN [Brinzian]

Old Bankssite of Yorville
Newarknear Cruseday
Cluiknear Yorville
Catholeabove Nears
Geramountabove Nears
Mannersabove Nears
Quoyjennyabove Hunclett
Richishaw?
Ladyhammernear Pier Cottage
Blackhammer Cott.?
Topsquare?
MyreEast of Nears
Dishansin yard of Trumland Farm
Cott Mowat, CommodeEast of Brinian House
Cottbelow Seaview
BrenionNorth-West of Brinian House
Houseteith?
Squarehall?
Salthouse?
New Grindly?

SOURIN

WindbreckEast of Clumpy
ShorehouseBetween Co-op Stable and Woo
MilnhouseBetween school and Woo
Heatherhouse?
Upper GrippsWest of Curquoy
Upper SwartifieldBelow the Blossan
Mid Swartifield?
HusabaeBelow Essaquoy
QueenamugleBelow Fa’doon
Eastafeaon Faraclett
Midfea or Mithvieon Faraclett
Peenonear Hanover
Wallhousenear Knarston
Quadraanear Faroe
Mill Braeabove Sourin mill
Skoanon land of Knarston near Gorehouse
Scarabreckon Faraclett between Mithvie and Eastfea
Windiwaa?
Castle by North?
Grind Braiknear Kingarly
Lower Grippsbelow Upper Gripps
Feelyhanear Cruannie
Lower Brecknear Leenburn
Graihill?
Old Man o Kinga?
Crook?
Midland Midgarth?
Neuksnear Hanover
Brigsend?
Greysteenbelow Midgarth
Larkquoy?
Hillside (Boggle Ha)West of Curquoy
Grindy?
Geroynenear the Old School
The Bungalowabove Avelsay
Lower Classyquoyat the road of Springfield
Brekantop field north side of the road Avelsay

Categories
History

House Map

The location of some of the old houses on Rousay