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Kirks and Kirkyards 3


The Kirks and Kirkyards of Rousay, Egilshay and Veira – Part 3

by

Tommy Gibson

A new kirkyard for Sourin and Frotoft was needed by the end of WW1. A site in the Brinian, at the Old Established Kirk was found. This was an area of about one and a half acres. Only about a half acre section was first used. This was to the east of the main gate. The first interment was in 1919. In the early sixties most of the ground was still old grass and heather, so some of the Kirk members ploughed and reseeded the rest of the ground. The ground to the west of the gate is now in use.

Rousay’s newest kirkyard at the Brinian
The Old Established Kirk and the U. P. away to the right

In the Brinian the two Kirks were the United Presbyterian and the Old (Established) Kirk. The Old Kirk was built around 1815. It is not known if that if a Church was already there but I suspect no. This Kirk was a well built building and even yet it stands as square today as the day it was built. The roof looks as good as new but I suspect in poor condition. There has been 3 doors into the building, one on the west end another on the east end but this one has been built up. There is an Oak lintel above this door, 18 inches wide, 4 inches deep, and 10 feet long. The third is through the porch. A small fireplace was next to the pulpit on the right side but there is no evidence of a chimney. There is a chimney on the west end but no fireplace. I wonder how these fires worked. There was also a fireplace in the middle of the building with a cast iron flue pipe.

Over the years I suspect that changes and improvements took place in this building. Originally there was a flagstone floor and this was later wooden. There is also four air vents on the main walls. They were covered by small ornate wooden boxes in the inside. Only three remain. Four large wooden beams brace the walls near the roof, and a very large beam still remains that was the bottom of the balcony. There were five rows of seats up there with a stairway to the left of the door. Six windows filled the place with light. Four on the south side and one each end, both high up. The pulpit had a large back but the actual pulpit itself was of a standard size. The last time the inside of the Kirk was painted, the walls and all the timber were painted pink, fortunately the roof was white. A small porch is situated on the lower side of the Kirk. A small window and a fireplace completes this small room.

The manse for this Kirk is at the Glebe, and had the largest membership when it was built. A few years later it was the smallest. One of the Ministers was the Rev. James Gardener. He came to Rousay in 1844 and did his pastoral duties for 42 years. He died in on the 28th March 1885 aged 82. It seems to me that the ministers liked Rousay. They did long years of service to the public. The Rev. McLellan 37 years, Ritchie 21 years, Rose 23 years. Long Service indeed. This Kirk was closed in the late 1920’s.

A story concerning Rev. Gardener; At the school of Rousay, on 19th April 1853, the session met and constituted. (This was most probably the Westside School). The Moderator was the Rev James Gardener and Messers Reid and Kirkness, Elders. Barbara Louttit (from Blackhammer), appeared and stated that she had given birth to a child….. to William Wood residing at Walliwall near Kirkwall was the father and that he had left the country. The moderator was asked to write to …..?….. in Kirkwall on the subject and report at the next meeting. Barbara Louttit was admonished and dismissed for the present. The meeting was closed with prayer. At the church in Rousay, 30th April 1854, the session met again. A letter from a Dr. Logie from Kirkwall was read and stated that W. Wood had indeed left the country. Barbara was in attendance and was questioned about the father of her child. She again was admonished and dismissed for present. A third meeting was called on the 6th of May 1855. Barbara Louttit craved baptism for her child. Being interrogated she again solemnly declared that William Wood was the father of the child. Again she was rebuked and seriously admonished before the session for the act of fornication, and informed her that she was absolved and was admitted back to the church privileges. This must have been a trying time for the girl. Over two years of meetings and rebukes, public scandal on top of this. She paid dearly for her son. Her son William Louttit married my grandfather’s sister, Margaret Gibson, and they had three of a family. They had a son William who took poorly when he was 6 and his father and a neighbour took a boat from Westness to Evie for medicine from a Doctor. They were both drowned half way across. William died from appendicitis at Broland in 1896 when he was 14.

Commonwealth War Graves in the Brinian kirkyard

I do not know when the services stopped in the Established Church. They may have gone on longer than 1929, when the Union came. In the Sixties many Kirks were sold all over the Country. Meetings were held in Rousay to see about the possibility of selling the Old Kirk. Some of the members of the Old Kirk were still alive then and were horrified about the prospect of selling the Kirk. The old aligns was still there and most of them would have rather die then sell of the Kirk. It still remains an empty building.

The U.P. Kirk, beyond the Brinian kirkyard
The interior of the kirk has now been renovated to a high standard, containing self-catering accommodation and a recording studio.

Rousay United Secession Church. (The U.P.) This was an offshoot of the Kirkwall congregation. Some Rousay people were members of Mr. Paterson’s congregation and moved for a church in 1833. A congregation was formed and a church was built in 1834 free of debt. A commemorated token to mark this event was struck. A manse was built immediately thereafter. Four years passed before they got a minister, The Rev. John McLellan who was ordained in 1837. He then ministered to the wants and needs of the congregation for 37 years. McLellan was a powerful preacher and, with revivalist influence strong throughout Orkney, he quickly built up a membership to 170, with an average Sunday attendance of 250. He died in 1874. After a short vacancy Mr. Alexander Allardice was called and settled, but after a brief ministry he was removed by death. He held the position for 6 years. The last minister was the Rev. Alexander Pirie who was called in 1883. He retired in 1914. The church had undergone several alterations and was now a serviceable building. This Church was finally closed in 1995. Six years later the windows on the south side of the Kirk were blown out. It is now in a sad state of repair.

The U.P. kirk and its manse – Brinian House. c1930

The manse, slightly more an ordinary house, having been damaged by lightning, was replaced by a new commodious house. This being the present manse. This was in 1883 built at a cost of £900. The contract was awarded to Alexander Gibson, Vacquoy who had built the Wasbister School and schoolhouse. Most of the money came from the presbytery in Kirkwall. This manse later became the residence of the Rousay Doctors and was renamed Brinian House. Up to about 1964 the doctor used one of the rooms in the house as a surgery and dispensary. No facilities for a waiting room, the patents had to wait in the kitchen. A wooden building was erected to the west side of the house for a surgery and waiting rooms. This lasted till 1999 when a new modern surgery was built separately from the house. In the early sixties this church became the only regular working church in Rousay. After the union in 1929 Rev. Robert R. Davidson was the minister of the United Churches. A well-liked and respected minister who was formerly a medical missionary in Africa, he was in the Cold Coast, which was later Ghana. He lived in the West Manse at the Glebe. I remember he had a wireless aerial between the chimneys of the manse – a two-storey house. This needed regular inspection; the Rev. Davidson would go up to the roof and walk between the chimneys unaided. We all thought that he had nerves of steel. He left Rousay in 1952 to retire in Holm where he died in 1963 aged 79. His housekeeper was a Miss Morrison, who came from Stronsay. The Rev. Beattie was the next minister. He was an ex. RAF padre. He married while in office in Rousay and left about 1961.

Chapel in the garden at Westness House

Westness House was situated near the farmhouse and was built over the burn. It was quite a modern house of its day. It straddled the burn, and the water washed household wastes away. John Traill of Westness was a Jacobite and after the battle of Culloden Moor, the government of the day punished them. On Friday the 24th of June 1746, one Ben Moody, of Melsetter, sailed from Kirkwall to Westness and set about plundering the House. He ordered the servants to empty the house of the furniture, and then he took a few choice items, loaded this on to the boat then ordered them to set the rest on fire. Next he turned the guns on the house and raised it to the ground. John Traill decided to rebuild the house on the side of the hill above the original site. This was a spot where the ladies of the house went up and sat in the sun. A house was built before 1750 along with a Chapel. Over the years Westness House has been added on to and renovated possibly a lot of times. The Chapel was Episcopalian, and was at the bottom of the garden.

George William Traill was the Laird of the Estate and resided at Westness from 1840 to 1847, an uncle to Frederick Burroughs, who was the laird from 1847 to 1905. It is known that Eliza Burroughs his wife used this Chapel. Over the years it went into a state of disrepair and a green house was constructed at the end of the chapel and the chapel was made into a tool shed. After the break-up of the estate, Walter Grant bought Trumland House for himself and Westness House for his sisters, Mrs. Low and Mrs. Laurie. He removed the greenhouse and had the chapel renovated and also provided the furniture. In 1952 Dr James Firth and family bought Westness House with little or no furniture. Mrs. Grant on hearing that the chapel was being used again returned the furniture, which was a lectern, chairs and the prayer stools etc. Services were usually conducted by the ministers from the Episcopalian church from Kirkwall. This chapel is still occasionally used.

St Mary’s, the Westside Kirk
The Manse – Lower Blackhammer in Wasbister

The Westside Kirkyard has a peaceful and pleasant location overlooking Eynhallow. The tide and sea can be very picturesque on a windy day. The church, dedicated to St Mary, was built in the Kirkyard. The building, now roofless, would have been thatched. The west end of the church started to lean out and a buttress was built to stop this. There are a total of 77 headstones upright or laid flat on the ground. There is no evidence of a manse for the minister in the Westside but in Wasbister was a house called the Manse. This was built on the land belonging to the Traills of Westness. The Manse was built c1560 and remained the manse to St. Mary’s till c1746, this was the time the minister was catholic. From c1746 till 1790 it was still a manse, but to the new Scottish dedication of the United Presbyterian. Before 1837 Wasbister was owned by Lord Advocate of Shetland called Lord Zetland (Sir Laurans Dundas C.B.E.) and may have owned the land up to Kirkgate – i.e. the gate to the Kirk lands, so Blackhammer and Kirkgate may have been on Kirk lands. It was then called Lower Blackhammer, and latterly it was reverted back to “The Manse”.

I have also heard that Egilshay folk worshiped there. To get to the Westside they had to sail or pull across to Rousay, and land below the mill. The best way was to walk up by the Sourin burn to the Muckle Water, then making their way down to the Kirk. You must remember that there were no roads of any consequence in those days. When they arrived they would put on their best boots to enter the Kirk. In the wintertime and perhaps even summer, they must have sat through the services very wet. The service would last for up to two and a half hours, then they had to return back to Egilshay. They must have thought it dangerous to sail around to the Westside.

The late George W. Mainland born at Cott in 1898, and writing in 1974: “My mother who was born in 1867, remembers her grandmother Isabella Yorston quite well. She was born at Skaill, Westside. According to her gravestone in the Chapel she died on 25th February l885 aged 95, being a widow of John Mowat from Skuan. This house was on the land of Knarston. My mother used to tell us that she remembered her grandmother’s tales about living at Skaill, and sometimes listening to singing in the Kirk. According to the dates she was about eight years old”. This would have been c1790.

It was the Rev. James Paterson (ordained in Egilshay) who was the last minister for the Westside Kirk. He was ordained in Egilshay c1789. He took a service in Egilshay one week then in Rousay the next. He died on February 2nd 1837. The services were discontinued now. The last interment was in 1917 when Harry Reid was killed in WW1. The Rev Duncan McLaren of Evie officiated in the absence of the Rev. John Dais Logie who was away attending the Assembly. A large number of mourners from Rousay and Longhope attended. The bearers and firing parties were from the O.R.G.A. Territorials; this was on Wednesday May 23rd 1917.

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History

Kirks and Kirkyards 2


The Kirks and Kirkyards of Rousay, Egilshay and Veira – Part 2

by

Tommy Gibson

The kirkyard at Scockness, to the right of the farm buildings

At Scockness the Kirkyard was built on the highest point of land on the farm. The dyke built around the yard looks to be a very old construction. It measures 28 yards north and south and by 30 yards east and west. This was closed in the 1930s but the last interment was in 1958. There are a total of 68 headstones, including three that have fallen. The wall around the yard is in good condition but the north wall seems to be a lot older and starting to lean out. There would have been a Kirk there at one time.

This may have been in the 17th century, although, there is no evidence of a foundation for a building but on old maps a Chapel is mentioned, this was to the west of the kirkyard. At Scockness, like the other old Kirkyards the ground inside the dyke is a lot higher than outside. At the east side the ground is about 3 ft higher than the ground on the outside of the Kirkyard. I wonder if it is because of the sheer volume of interments. Even if the kirkyard had only been there since the l7th-century there must have been untold hundreds of interments in the old kirkyards. In Sourin the population for 1841 was 327.

When the last gravedigger for the Scockness kirkyard dug a grave he always had a lot of bones to hide till the funeral was over. The bones were always returned but there was supposed to be a pile of skulls thrown in the lower corner by previous diggers. He would go into Scockness for his dinner but he never washed his hands. It never hurt him; he died in 1938 when he was 98. At the north side of the Kirkyard was the old Tollbooth or prison. This was a square stone building covered with earth and grass. A very small window looked across to Eday, also with a small entrance. If anyone, for any reason, was cast into this prison let’s hope it was in the summer time. The wintertime must have been very cold. This was removed in the early sixties when a new steading was built on the farm.

The Chapel below the Glebe at the shore in Sourin is the smallest of all the Kirkyards, with only 30 headstones. Its size is only 45ft x 36ft. Traditionally it was supposed to have the most interments for its size. Is this the oldest Kirkyard?

The dyke around the yard is in fair condition. The corners of the wall are in need of repair. The last internment was in 1943. At The north side of the yard is a mound with suggestions of a foundation, was this the site of a Kirk or Chapel? In the field above to the south west there is a large foundation. This was even an earlier Kirk, long gone. Again legend has it that a Kirk had been built in front of Knarston, which is nearby. This Kirk again, is long gone. Knarston is a very old farm with records going back to c1400.

The old E.C. manse to the left – and the new under construction in 1908/9

Near the Glebe is one of the three Manses. This manse is for the Established Church. This one was built about 1908-9. In 1906 the membership for the Old Kirk was 71, and the minister, the Rev. Alexander Spark received a stipend of £184. This money had a purchasing power of £9542.24p (1996 figures). The average farm worker earned about £16 per year. Purchasing power was £830.

Spark family members outside the old manse, c1896

The Rev. Spark took a dislike to the old Manse, and about 1900 tried to get his congregation to build a new one for him. He took up a building surveyor from Edinburgh to examine the manse, claiming that the walls were damp. The Rev. took buckets of water to dampen the walls, just to make sure. He also wrote to General Burroughs, the laird who owned the parish, demanding the use of a house “worthy of my status, such as Westness House” while the manse was being built. He went to live in Kirkwall while the new manse was being built. The contract was awarded to Samuel Firth, building contractor, Harray, Orkney. The manse was completed in 1909 at a cost of approximately £900. The old manse was probably built about 1747-50: this would have made the building about 160 years old. It is a pity that a date stone from the old manse was not preserved.

Mrs Jane Spark
Reverend Alexander Spark

John Corsie, who was a servant man at The Glebe, was carting peats to Mrs. Spark, at the Manse. Mrs. Spark said to one of the servant girls to put a cake on a tray and cut a slice and offered it to the hungry John. John, with a mischievous grin took the cake and left the slice! “Ma’am”, the girl shouted to Mrs. Spark, “he took the wrong piece, what will I do”? The Rev Williams was the last minister in the Established Kirk. Unfortunately not much is known about him except that he had a rather arrogant nature. Now the West Manse is the Church and Day Centre, opened on August 27th 1995. Two rooms on the ground floor were made into one, and made a sizeable hall. This is used every Wednesday for the Triangle Club for the old folks and not so old ones, and at weekends used for services and meetings.

The old Free Kirk and its manse, Burnside

In Sourin to the West of the crossroad is the Free Kirk. This was said to be a low narrow thatched building. It was rebuilt around about the late 1840’s. The story was, (I have never seen any records) that the Kirk was lengthened, heightened and widened. The quarrying, masonry and labouring work was done freely by the Sourin folk. The stones came out of a small quarry nearby. The Reids of Wasdale (a farm near the Kirk) were said to be in charge of the joinery, for there was a tremendous amount of work in the roof. The roof trusses were only 18 inches centres. The window frames were a little too short so they scared (scarfed) a new bottom on to the frame of the window. This was still there a few years ago. In fact the top of the window was in a better state than the bottom. While this building was going on, the services were held in the open air. I have heard that this took place at Knarston and also I believe near to the Sourin Kirk.

The ruins of Eastaquoy and Outerdykes in the foreground, the old Free Kirk and Burnside, and Ervadale at the top of the fields.

It was known as the Ritchie Church. The Rev. George Ritchie was born in Glasgow in 1789. He came to Rousay to the Established Church in 1837 remaining in Rousay till his death on the 23rd Oct. 1858. At the disruption in 1843, he was one of six ministers who ‘came out’, in Orkney, bringing the greater part of the new congregation to the new Free Church in Sourin. He was married to Isabella Anderson on the 6th October 1840. They are both buried at Scockness. The Free Kirk was one of the few Organizations that recognized over population in the Isles. It used to help to pay the young folk to go to the colonies. Most of them had nothing and they went to nothing. Many of them made good. The Free Kirk, like others, also benefited from legacies. On the 28th day of June 1892, The Rev. Bonellie received £157 15s 1d from the late Thomas Mainland, a fisherman\farmer of Springfield. This would have been a considerable boost to the funds.

James Leonard, Digro – ‘champion of the Rousay crofters’

Above right, is Thomas Marwick [seated], with his son-in-law Richard Craigie in New Zealand. Richard married Thomas’s daughter Mary in 1859, but she died in 1862. That same year he then married Mary’s sister Isabella, and they went on to have a family of ten children, four boys and six girls. – [Photo courtesy of Janet Craigie-McConnell, NZ]

Not many records exist of the Sourin Kirk but I would like to mention one elder, Thomas Marwick of Woo. Thomas was born at Scockness in 1796, and married Ann Gibson of Broland in 1820, was a farmer for a short while at Banks, Sourin then Woo. They had 10 of a family; most of them went to New Zealand and Australia. His wife died in 1861 so Thomas went out to New Zealand with his daughters Mary and Isabella in 1857. Thomas was an elder in the Free Kirk and he was given a presentation when he left Rousay. Another elder and presentor was James Leonard of Digro. James was a deeply religious man. After giving evidence to the Crofters Commission against the Laird, General Burroughs, he was evicted from Digro. James went to Kirkwall for a short while then he went to Oban, and was active in the Kirk there. He never returned to Rousay.

The Sourin kirk, photographed in 1994

In 1873 the School (this is now the Old School) was too small so all the bairns went to the Kirk to be used for a school. There were more than 80 pupils going to the school. In the Old School the classroom was only a small room. It must have been cramped conditions, and then going into a huge room of the Kirk must have been bliss. The Sourin folk were very loyal to their Kirk; nearly every household in Sourin went to the Free Kirk. Only seven families from Sourin went to the U.P. Kirk, and these were mainly families that came into Sourin from Wasbister and Frotoft, this was between 1875 and 1906. It is not known how many went to the Established Kirk. I was told that when Christina Craigie of Fa’doon was “cried in the Kirk” (the Banns) every seat was taken and the balcony was full, they were sitting in the windowsills and even standing in the aisles. There were only two folk in Sourin who were not at this event and the rest of the folk thought they were “queer”.

One person I must specially mention is James William Grieve, of White Ha. Known to all as Cheemie-Willie. A quiet kindly man liked by all. He was a faithful office-bearer over 40 years. He became an Elder on the 30th July 1899 before his 24th birthday and served till he left Rousay in 1942 to live with his daughter in Birsay. He was very, very musical and held various certificates. Weddings and most dances saw James William playing the fiddle, usually on his own. There was no amplification in those days. Mr. Grieve died on the 17th March 1951 aged 75 and is buried in the Brinian Kirkyard. Along with J.W. Grieve that day in 1899 was Mr. Hugh Craigie of Swandale was also ordained an Elder. Mr James Clouston of Tou, d. 1945, was ordained a Deacon along with Hugh Craigie of Deithe, d. 1933, and John Gibson of Broland, my grandfather, and he died in 1934. A deacon is an officer of the church and the duties are looking after the finance and the running of the Kirk.





James William Grieve, Whiteha’,
with his wife Mary Ann Harrold
and visitor Jean Hackston. c.1930.

The other four men elected as Deacons that day in 1899:

Above left is Hugh Craigie, Swandale, with his wife Lizzie. Above right is James Clouston, Tou, with wife Annabella and children Clara & Jim.

On the right in the picture below left is John Gibson, Broland, with Malcolm Leonard, Quoys. Below right is Hugh Craigie, Deithe, with his wife Maggie.

Evenings in the Sourin Kirk were something to behold. Kirk Socials and Soirees were always outstanding successes. The performances would make any opera company of today envious. Not one seat was empty. Organising concerts in the Kirk must have been a massive undertaking. One programme had 28 items. Songs, part songs, duets, selections, quartets, choir singing, were all part of the programme. This was the work of William Grieve of Fa’doon. He was a cousin of James William, and also a gifted musician and teacher. William was also presenter in the Sourin Kirk. His son Robert took over as the presenter in 1934 till he left to go and live Sandwick in November 1960. Robert, a blacksmith, was also a gifted musician and singer. All that family were musical and they “understood” music. I remember the first time I was in the Sourin Kirk in the Broland seat, every house had a seat, the rent of this seat used to be 2/6, (12½ pence per year) at the back wall. We went into the Kirk about 20 past 11, must not be late. At half past 11, the Rev Davidson was led in to the pulpit by an elder. He sat in the pulpit what seemed to me as an eternity then he rose from his seat and there was a prayer. Then a hymn was announced. A huge man stood up in front of the pulpit, this was Robert Grieve, the organ sprang into life, this man started to bellow and sing. I thought this man had gone crazy, making such a noise. I was never so frightened in my short life [I was only 4 years old] and was wishing that the ground would open and swallow me up. Soon the music finished, time for a pandrop (a strong peppermint sweetie). Soon the minister was at the sermon; every now and then a fist was hammered on the pulpit to emphasize a point, which made every one jump. No one sleeps through my sermons!

One more point I must make; the music in the Rousay kirks was sung at slightly faster speed than a lot of parishes in Orkney. The parish of Birsay was the same. Singers from other parishes, visiting Rousay Kirks, said that it was most refreshing to listen to hymns and psalms sung at a faster, or the correct speed. At the end of April 1967, a meeting was held in the Sourin Kirk about closing down. The voting was 16 for closing and 4 against. It was Mr. Hunter who was the missionary in Rousay at the time. Wilma Mainland, (Mrs. Fraser) of Essaquoy was the last person to get married here in 1969. It was opened especially for this event. I remember the light came from Tilley lamps. This Kirk had its own manse, which was rebuilt around about the same time as the Kirk, this is now known as Burnside.








Cruannie blacksmith Robert Grieve, with
Ann and Wille Grieve of Digro on the right

I can remember on a Sunday in the early 1950’s, the folk leaving the Kirk at 12:30 and walking home. Every one walked to and from the Kirk in those days. They had reached the crossroads and were still coming out of the Kirk. Not many cars in these days, but two cars were usually there. The first one belonged to Rev. Davidson, and the other was from Trumland House, usually driven by David Pirie, the gardener. The Rev. Davidson took his car, a Morris Cowley, to the smithy at Cruannie. “Mr. Grieve,” said the Rev. Davidson, “there is a strange sound coming from my car! Will you walk along side and try to locate the noise.” “Fine hid” said Mr. Grieve. The minister started the car and Robert walked along side, “Can you hear anything, Mr Grieve?” “Lord, I can’t hear a thing,” Robert replied. “Do not take the name of The Lord in vain,” said the minister. To this Robert replied, “Good, I was Not taking His name in vain, I have never taken His name in vain in all me life”.

On the 2nd of February 1952 a violent hurricane hit Britain, and was particularly hard on the North of Scotland. I hope the like never returns again. I remember the morning of the hurricane, the old Hall was destroyed and a lot of damage was done to the school. Stacks and hen houses were also blown down. Thousands of hens were lost and destroyed. All the telephone poles in the parish were either at a list or blown down. By co-incidence a GPO lorry and a gang of men were working in Rousay. The men were staying in the manse, (Burnside) and the lorry was parked in front of the Kirk. Through the night a huge gust of wind shoved the lorry forward about 20 ft. Then a bigger gust blew down the bell tower right where the lorry was first standing. The men were sorry that the lorry had moved. It was (the bell tower) never replaced. The Sourin Kirk was closed in the early 1960’s and is now in a sad state of disrepair. When the Kirk was closed, the Church of Scotland owned it, and then in the 1970’s it was sold privately.

Categories
History

Kirks and Kirkyards 1


The Kirks and Kirkyards of Rousay, Egilshay and Veira

by

Tommy Gibson

Being a three-island parish it would not have been the easiest to administer to the various religious needs of the people. Long ago, getting parishioners to the various churches on a Sunday morning would have been rather hazardous in bad weather. Boats carrying worshippers from Wyre to Rousay, boats from Egilshay to Rousay, boats to Egilshay from Rousay, also boats to Rendall or Kirkwall and, or Shapinsay. Safety must have been a priority for I have never come across any evidence of any accident concerning the transport of anyone between the islands for church matters.

Rousay and Eynhallow, photographed from Costa on mainland

The small boats went in fairly bad weather and sometimes the passengers sat through a long sermon, soaking wet. The folk walked from Wasbister to Sourin up the Leean, and then they turned off the main road (now the council dump) onto a side road above the Blossan, Digro and Cruannie, down what was called the middle road at Ervadale to the Sourin Kirk. This road was well defined in the 1950’s and even now marks of that road are still there in places. It would have been slightly shorter than going down the Sourin Brae then up the Crossroads. Again this was a long walk in bad weather. Before the U.P. Kirk was built it was not uncommon for island parishioners to take a hazardous journey to Kirkwall for a service. Often in bad weather, they would have to get up before 3 o’clock in the morning to walk over the hill to the shore, sail directly into Kirkwall, or sail to and then walk from Evie or Rendall with no proper roads, over heather or rough ground. I recall a story about a Rousay man who wanted a particular minister to baptise his son. This Minister resided in Kirkwall, so the man took his son and made his way across Evie Sound and walked to the town. On arrival he discovered the minister was in Holm. The man set off to find the minister, was successful, had the son baptised, and returned to Rousay after walking maybe over 60 miles. Another story I heard long ago was about a Craigie man who lived up in the hill in Frotoft. This man was very religious, and wanted to see God. He pondered for a while, looking up at the Heavens wondering how to get up there. It suddenly dawned on him that birds fly to the Heavens. He gathered up feathers for days from dead whitemaa’s (sea gulls). When he thought he had enough, he climbed to the top of the lum, (chimney top) and jumped off; the feathers did no good, when landed he’d broken both his arms. Such was their devotion.

The Leean – the lower northern slopes of Kierfea Hill above Langskaill

The earliest religious area I have found in Rousay is a mound about a half way down the Leean. The name of this place is Hendi-Midgathy. A translation would be “a steep slope halfway between hill dykes – a Holy-Garth, of some kind”. (Dr. Hugh Marwick’s Rousay Place-Names.) Nothing more is known of this place and nothing there to suggest that anything took place or any evidence that a building was there. The first time I heard this name it was called “The Henni Midgier Brae”, by Willie Inkster, who was born at Swartifield in 1902. There is no evidence of any building, chapel, or church on this site. Previous to 1796 there were no dissenters of any denomination in Orkney. The people were all nominally connected with the Established Church. This was also known as the “Old Kirk.”

Bigland is in the foreground of this view, with Breck and Myres beyond it. Across the water is the Holm of Scockness, then the northern part of Egilsay. Across the firth is Eday, and Stronsay is way-away on the horizon.

The first recorded Minister in the parish was the Rev. Cuthbert Henderson who was in Rousay in 1580, and in 1585 the Rev. Ninian Halcrow A.M.(sic) was the second. In 1590 the third minister, James Tulloch took charge. In 1659 the charge was taken over by the Rev. Thomas Baikie. His charge only lasted for five years. He was buried in St. Magnus churchyard, Kirkwall on the 14th of April 1666, aged 42. This was the same year as the Great Fire of London. There is no record which church he preached in. In 1627 the Rev. James Brand had 400 communicants on the Roll. In 1733 the records show a meeting, all in the Kirk in Egilshay. The Elders were William and Alexander Yorkstone (this may have been Yorstone), John Gibson, George Alexander, John Grieve and Peter Reid, William Mainland was absent. The minister was The Rev. James Jamison. There were several persons guilty of fornication, such as Isobel Lennard relaps (sic) with one Andrew Moss in Avilha (could this be Avilshay?). Ursula Corsie also relaps! The last one being David Craigie in Bigland. Peter Cogle and Marion Yorkstone (any relation?) in Egilshay.

On October the 14th 1733 the Rev. James Jamison called the session in Rousay. William Craigie, William Folstar, John Flaws, Henry Inkster, George and James  Marwick  were  the  elders. Gilbert Brand and Marion Yorkstone, (again?) did not appear as they were appointed. The session did find that William Buchan and Catherine had some time ago confessed their guilt as adulterers. The scandal is not yet removed. The Session considered that they wanted sackcloth for the appearance of adulterers, so it was recommended to William Folstar  to  buy  six  yards  for that purpose. Take the money from the box of the needy to buy same. Elizabeth Traill daughter of deceits (sic) and William Traill of Quendall brought forth a child in uncleanness to servant  John Flaws, of John Robertson of Skaill. Christian Corsay servant to Henry Inkster, Wysbister, had a child, to appear before the session, as soon as she recovered from childbed  sickness. Has anything changed?

Kirk Brae, mentioned in the text below, was sited at the sea-end of the green field middle right in the above photo. Yorville is in the centre, with Breek, Burrian, Brough, Cott and Langstane stretching away. Cotafea is at the top, and Tratland just appears below it and to the right.

In about 1890 the Roll of the three Churches in Rousay was 454. The Established Church 59. Free Church 195 and the U.P. 200. The population of the parish in 1891 was 988. The Established minister always received the highest stipend. As in any old kirkyard wherever, all graves and all Churches face the East, and in some cases the ends of the building was a landmark or a bearing, for sailing ships and boats. The oldest graveyard found was in a field in Frotoft at the Hullion Pier. This was known as Kirk Brae, and was excavated in the mid 1970’s. Seven shallow graves were found, slightly scattered. Over the years the plough had done damage to the area. The date is unknown, but very old. There is no record of any burial place before the existing Kirkyards. In Quandale there are a few burnt mounds, possibly this was for cremation, maybe not. Long ago when dead sailors were found they were always buried on the shore above high water mark where they were found. There are a lot of graves around the coastline. Some of the places are The North Sand, Scockness. Hunber, Faraclett. Gruthin, Wasbister. Below Banks, Sourin. The shore around Quandale, the North shore on the Holm of Scockness and Eynhallow. Most of the sites of these graves have long disappeared.

When the end came to someone in the parish there was usually a neighbour woman in attendance. This woman usually went around the district when help was needed. The undertakers were always local, usually each district had their own. The minister played a large part in the funeral. Visiting the bereaved, arranging the funeral service and the committal. The family usually mourned for long periods, always wore black clothing, they would not visit, or receive visitors, go anywhere except to the Kirk.

Shalter, with its commanding view across Wester to Westray away in the distance

Also a certain woman would be in attendance at a birth. If a birth was in Wasbister, a neighbour would say to his wife, “there’s a ship ashore at Shalter the day”. They would never say “a bairn is being born at Shalter the day”. It was supposed to be bad luck to mention a birth taking place and its location in the same sentence.

Section of an old map showing the sites of St Colm’s and Corse Kirks,
and Burrian and Bretta Ness in the Wester Loch

The old kirkyards in Rousay were filling up or full. In Wasbister the kirkyard known as the Corse Kirk, was full a lot of times over. The size is only 31 yards by 27. There are 42 headstones in the old section; this was for a very small percentage of the population interred here. This included three flat vaults built up to a height of about six inches. I have heard that it was for people who died of a particularly nasty disease and the stones were built on the grave so it would never be disturbed again. I know that one or two stones fell and are hidden by the rabbit warrens in the north end of the yard. The oldest date on a headstone is 1831, but the Kirkyard is a lot older. The stone dykes are of an older construction. In the southwest part of the old kirkyard is a raised area, what maybe a foundation of part of an old Kirk. An old map dated 1881 referred to an old Kirk being in the east end of the yard. There is no evidence of any foundations there. We will probably never know the details. A new section was needed for the graveyard. The middle section of the Wasbister kirkyard was opened about the turn of the 20th century. This was slightly smaller than the old section at 20yds. by 25. The earliest inscription on a headstone in this section is 1904. This again soon filled up. 44 headstones adorned the site but they did not face the east. This broke tradition, and was the first time in Rousay that the graves were laid to the square.

Soon another section was needed. James Munro, mason, Breval, and his son Byng, built a high wall around the newest section. This was just before the Second World War. This was quite a large area with over 700 layers. When the wall was built, steps were built in the gate between the pillars. This was a peculiar tradition in the parish. The Kirkyards at Scockness, Glebe, the Westside, and Wyre have steps built across the gate, which had to be climbed over to get into the cemetery. Whether this was built when the kirkyard was closed or earlier I do not know. The steps into the Wasbister kirkyard were removed soon after it was built. The first interment was in 1942. This was in the northwest corner. It will take several hundred years to fill up. The population in the district now is only about 26. According to the census of 1841 two hundred and ninety persons lived in Wasbister. To date there are 21 headstones in the newest section.

Across from the kirkyard in the loch is a small island called Burrian. Tradition has it that this was man-made. A causeway connecting the island was built across on the westerly side. This is now sunk well below the waterline. The Wasbister loch, as we know it now, was at one time, supposed to be three small lochs, but this was made into one when a dam was built for the grinding mill at Saviskaill. Burrian is now overgrown with bushes and it is very difficult exploring, but there is no evidence of a Kirk or Chapel or any building. The only building is a dyke built around the small island. A word of warning, do not try to wade or find the causeway across, as this is very dangerous. The loch is very muddy in this area.

Wester fishermen pulling up their boats on the shore below Saviskaill, c1910

[Photo courtesy of the author]

Below Langskaill, on the shore was the site of St Colm’s Kirk, now completely eroded away by the sea. All I know about this place was that fishermen used to go inside and leave a token, this may have been money, or a trinket for good luck and hopefully for a safe return from the fishing grounds. I have heard that even after the Kirk had gone, small amounts of money were found in that area. This Kirk must have disappeared a few hundred years ago, for the only record I have seen is only on very old maps of Rousay.

Categories
History

School Groups


WASBISTER

Wasbister School c1910. Teacher: Mattie Wards

Back row, from left: Maggie Jane Clouston, Shalter; Hugh Sinclair, Vacquoy; Ellen Mary Craigie, Ploverha; John Marwick, Quoys; Maggie Inkster, Furse; James Clouston, Tou; Jean Inkster, Swartafiold; David Flaws, Hammerfield; ?.

Middle row: Mary Jane Pearson, Kirkgate; James Craigie, Turbitail; Bessie Muir, Breckan; Hugh Craigie, Deithe; Maggie Jessie Flaws, Hammerfield; James Marwick, Grain; William Craigie, Ivybank; Robert Inkster, Furse; Annie Craigie, Ivybank;
Arthur Flaws, Hammerfield.

Front row: John Clouston, Shalter; James Sinclair, Blackhammer; Maggie Jessie Muir, Breckan; Liz Moar, Saviskaill; Ethel Inkster, Furse; Annabella Sinclair, Sketquoy; Tony Sinclair, West Side School; Isabella Sinclair, West Side School.

Wasbister School 1916. Teacher: Anna May Cooper

Back row, from left: Minnie Inkster, Furse; Lilly Inkster, Furse; William Flaws, Hammerfield; Hugh Sinclair, Sketquoy; Maggie Jessie Grieve, Whitemeadows;
Rita Craigie, Ivybank.

Middle row: George Craigie, Falquoy; Ethel Inkster, Furse; Annabella Sinclair, Sketquoy; Maggie Jessie Flaws, Hammerfield; Jim Craigie, Falquoy.

Front row: Sidney Marwick, Innister; John Marwick, Innister; Bella Laird, Castlehill; Andrew Laird, Castlehill; Charles Logie, Cubbie Roo.

Wasbister School 1931. Teacher: Miss Tina Mathieson

Back row: Stanley Moar, William Marwick, David Wards, Sinclair Craigie, Thomas Donaldson, Thomas Marwick, James Craigie.

Middle row: Jim Sinclair, Clara Donaldson, Agnes Marwick, Netta Sinclair, Jean Marwick, Kathleen Craigie, Clem Donaldson, Anna Marwick, Robert Marwick.

Front row: William Donaldson, Jim Leslie, Donald Marwick.

Wasbister School 1939. Teacher: Miss Margaret Sutherland

Back row: George Sinclair, Sketquoy; David Leslie, Whitemeadows; Evelyn Clouston, Tou; Renee Hourie, Braehead; Phebe Marwick, Innister; Elsie Donaldson, Vacquoy; Edwin Moar, Saviskaill.

Front row: David Marwick, Quoys; Kathy Marwick, Quoys; Edna Clouston, Tou; Nettie Marwick, Innister; Gertie Moar, Saviskaill; John Marwick, Braehead.

FROTOFT

Frotoft School in the summer of 1903. Photo by Trumland House butler John Logie

Back row, from left: Annie Craigie, Mount Pleasant; Eliza Shearer, Old Mill, Trumland Farm; Martha Craigie, Mount Pleasant; Cecilia Logie, The Stables, Trumland House; Agnes Johnston, Breek; Mary Ann Sinclair, Newhouse.

Front row: Peter Shearer, Old Mill, Trumland Farm; George Mainland, Cott; William Logie, Gripps; Robert Inkster, Westness Farm; Miss Barbara Norquoy the teacher; David Inkster, Westness Farm.

Frotoft school group

Back row, from left: Jim Craigie, Corse; Jim Robertson, Trumland Farm; George Mainland, Cott; William Logie, Mount Pleasant; Mary Ann Sinclair, Newhouse; Maggie Robertson, Old Mill; Jeannie Harrold, Rose Cottage; John Mainland, Cott; Robert Mainland, Westness.

Front row: John Logie, Mount Pleasant; Charlie Logie [Lalla], Ivy Cottage; Mary Mainland, Westness; Peggy Sutherland, Viera View; Isie Craigie, Corse; Edda Mainland, Cott; John Mainland, Westness.

Frotoft School c1913. Teacher: Sarah Craigie [later Mrs Costie] – left the school in 1914

Back row, left to right: Davidson Harrold, Rose Cottage; Charles Logie [Lalla]; Agnes Robertson, Banks; Isabella Craigie, Corse; Peggie Sutherland; Jeannie Harrold, Rose Cottage; Bobbie o’ Westness; Lily Low, Hooklet; Marjorie o’ Hullion; Jeems o’ Corse; Louie o’ Corse; John o’ Cott; Edda; John Logie, Mount Pleasant; Mary o’ Westness; Jeannie Louttit, Evie; teacher Sarah Craigie; Jock o’ Westness; Jim Sinclair [o’ the Lodge].

Front row: Hugh Sutherland; James Gibson, Hullion; Emma Mainland [Maggie Jessie Ann], Jim, her twin, behind her; Dave Gibson, Brough; Marie Leonard, Hullion; Kathleen o’ Hullion; Harry Logie; Annie Gibson, Hullion; Maggie Ann Craigie;
Tom Sinclair; Annie Leonard; Alice Logie [Girlie].

Frotoft School, c1925. Teacher: Mary Ann Sinclair

Back row, from left: Ann Reid; Mabel Sinclair; Minnie Reid; Anne Johnston; James Smith; Bill Gibson.

Middle row: Mary Yorston; Sarah Smith; Jim Yorston; ? Hume; Hugh Marwick; Jim Marwick; Bill Craigie.

Front row: Bill Smith; John Gibson, Hullion; ? Hume; John Marwick; John Yorston; Lilla Yorston; Lilly Sinclair.

Frotoft School, c1925. Teacher: Mary Ann Sinclair, Newhouse

Back row: Jim Marwick, Breek; John Marwick; John Craigie, Corse; Bill Smith.

Middle row: Sarah Smith; Mary Yorston; Mary Sinclair, Newhouse; Ann Reid, Tratland; Minnie Reid, Tratland.

Front row: John Gibson, Hullion; Fred Craigie, Corse; Jim Yorston; Hugh Marwick, Breek; Lilla Yorston; Lily Sinclair, Banks.

SOURIN

The Sourin School, 1905. Teachers: Miss Jessie Marwick, Guidall [far left],
and Mary Mainland, Gorehouse

Back row: ?; ?; Helen Craigie, born at West Creya; Mary Ann Grieve, Fa’doon; ?; Ann Corsie, Knarston; Winnie Gibson, Avelshay.

4th row: John Marwick, Quoys; Thomas Corsie, Knarston; James Craigie, Glebe; Albert Munro, Old School; William Corsie, Glebe; William Marwick, Quoys; James Lyon, Ervadale.

3rd row: Robert Sabiston, Gripps; John Craigie, Treblo; James Irvine, Woo; ?; William Marwick, Scockness; James Moodie, Ervadale; John Sabiston, Gripps.

2nd row: Janet Corsie, Knarston; Mimie Seatter, Banks; Aggie Lyon, Ervadale; Edith Spark, Est. Ch. Manse; Margaret Jessie Inkster, Swartifield; Maggie Jean Lyon, Ervadale; Catherine Lyon, Ervadale; Bella Seatter, Banks; Jessie Ann Harrold, Blossom.

Front row: George Sabiston, Gripps; David Gibson, Swartifield; Murray Spark, Est. Ch. Manse; Alfred Gibson, Avelshay; Edward Seatter, Banks.
[Alfred and Edward were both killed in WW1.]

Sourin School, 1905. Teachers: Miss Cooper & Miss Jessie Marwick, Guidall
Sourin School. No date, and no names I’m afraid!
Sourin School, c1916. Teacher: Miss Lydia Baikie

Back row, from left: ?; ?; ?; James Grieve; Stanley Gibson; Bobby Marwick; Gordon Dickson; George Corsie; David Linklater; Hugh Grieve; John Craigie.

Middle row: Alice Craigie; Cilla Corsie; Annie Craigie; Hannah Grieve; Mary Ann Craigie; Cissie Craigie; Annie Scott; Sally Craigie.

Front row: Maggie Jean Wylie; Mary Wylie; Jock Costie; Jessie Costie; Sammy Costie; Mary Leonard; Elsie Inkster.

Sourin school, 1932.

Back row: ?, Willie Ferguson (Stand Pretty), Bing Munro (Bravel), Alfred Gibson (Avelshay), Robert Seatter (Banks), Jeanny Donaldson (Broch), Daisy Munro (Bravel), Jean Clouston (Upper Knarston), Annabella Gibson (Pow), Roy Russell (Old School), Bill Mainland (Hurtiso), ?, Isobel Grieve, teacher (Fa’doon).

John Seatter (Banks), James Lyon (Ervadale), Annie Craigie (Essaquoy), Kathleen Munro (Bravel), Kathleen Grieve (Cruannie), Mabel Grieve (Cruannie), Nelly Harcus (Clumpy), Chrissie Russell (Brendale), Kathleen Gibson (Avelshay), Annie Craigie (Scockness), Isabella Lyon (Ervadale), George Craigie (Scockness).

John Grieve (Digro), Robert Grieve (Cruannie), Archer Clouston (Upper Knarston), Edith Gibson (Avelshay), Maggie Anne Munro (Bravel), Dorothy Mainland (Hurtiso), Netta Russell (Brendale), Anne Lyon (Ervadale), John Harcus (Clumpy), Andy Munro (Bravel), Angus Harcus (Clumpy).

Sourin School, 1936. Teachers: John Wallace and Ruby Brown
[George Mackay Brown’s sister]

Back row, from left: Angus Harcus; John Grieve; John Seatter; Billy Mainland; Leonard Irvine; George Craigie; Archer Clouston; Hugh Yorston; Robert Marwick; John Harcus.

3rd row: Dorothy Mainland; Edith Gibson; Sally Linklater; Isobel Pirie; Ann Lyon; Mabel Grieve; Cathy Linklater; Maggie Ann Munro.

2nd row: Gordon Taylor; George Grieve; Netta Russell; Chrissie Grieve; Dorothy Munro; Thelma Shearer; Robert Lyon; Norman Munro; Robert Munro.

Front row: Andy Munro; Bertie Grieve; Ernest Mainland; Arnold Grieve; Hugh Lyon; Tommy Linklater.

Morag Russell from Aberdeen writes:- This would have been a couple of years after my father left school (Hugh Russell). His younger sisters, Netta and Chrissie, must have been absent that day but I recognise many of their cousins and neighbours. Long years after this, I met the teacher, Miss Brown, at a creative writing evening class in Aberdeen, when she must have been quite an elderly lady. We sat together and I remember her telling me, with some pride, ‘I’m George Mackay Brown’s sister, you know.’ As we chatted on I realised who she was from stories my dad told about his school days! When I asked if she remembered him, she said, ‘Hughie Russell! He wis a right peedie divvil!’

Ruby Brown’s son Danny Ross writes:- “Ruby did enjoy her two years teaching at Sourin although she missed her Stromness family and all the shops there. Indeed, she became engaged to a Rousay man but when she discovered the sheer physical hard work of a farmer’s wife, she quickly became unengaged!”

Sourin School, 1938. Teachers, John Shearer and Margaret Cooper

Back row, from left: Dorothy Munro, Breval; Thelma Shearer, Curquoy; Norman Munro, Breval; Tommy Linklater, Blossom; Dorothy Mainland, Hurtiso; Hugh Lyon, Ervadale; Arnold Grieve, Cruannie; Chrissie Grieve, Digro; Eva Wylie, Grindlesbreck.

Middle row: Jim Linklater, Blossom; Peggy Gibson, Broland; Jim Gibson, Lopness; Vera Gibson, Fa’doon; Edward Seatter, Banks; James Harcus, Clumpy; Marjory Groundwater, Quoys; Peggy Corsie, Glebe.

Front row: Robert Munro, Breval; Gordon Taylor, Swandale; Ernie Mainland, Hurtiso; Hugh Munro, Breval; Robert Lyon, Ervadale; George Grieve, Cruannie.

All photos are courtesy of Tommy Gibson

[I have copied the names from the reverse of each photo –
and I admit there are one or two missing!]

Categories
History

The Reid Family Tree

SOME NOTES ON THE ROUSAY REIDS

by

George William Reid, born 1864, and ‘Author of these notes’

Probably the Reids came first to Orkney in the train of the Stewart Earls, Earl Robert and Earl Patrick, his son, in the days of Queen Mary and James VI. A number of Orkney families, the Balfours, Stewarts, Traills, Elphinstones, Gibsons, etc, came with those earls as their retainers or servants. There were Reids in Westray and Eday during the 18th Century, but I have not been able to find any connection of our ancestors with them.

George Reid – the centenarian

[This photo, and those of the other members of the Reid family, as well as the loan of the text, are courtesy of Tommy Gibson]

First Generation:

George Reid 1 (the centenarian, my great grandfather) came to Rousay from Westray some time about the end of the 18th or beginning of the 19th Century. He was said to be 107 years old when he died, but our people thought that that was a slight exaggeration. They estimated 105 years at the outside as his age. From incidents that he remembers they considered he must have been that age at least. He must have been born in Westray sometime about the middle of the 18th Century, for my father who was born in 1843 remembered him still living in Garson in Westside, say, between 1850 and 1860 I should think. I cannot fix the date exactly. I think he came first as a servant to the Traills of Westness, but he was farming in Woo in Sourin for a short time, for I have heard grandfather George 2 (your great grandfather) of Wasdale say that he remembered being at Woo as a little boy with his father. This first George married a Barbara Logie whose parents were Gilbert Logie and Helen Scott, also belonging to Westray. And that Gilbert Logie was the ancestor of the present Rousay Logies, who are thus cousins (3rd and 4th) of ours. I cannot trace the pedigree of George 1 further back. He was said to have been a very bold man. There was a Craigie in Westness, after the Traills I suppose who went and hanged himself. Nobody would venture into the room until our ancestor boldly went in and cut him down. So the story goes. I have never heard of any notice being taken of him by Royalty (Queen Victoria it would have been) or anybody else on account of his great age, except the individual who wrote those doggerel rhymes on the occasion of his photograph being taken. I think I must have a copy of that photograph somewhere if I could only lay hands on it. Whether he was married when he came to Rousay or after I have not been able to discover, but I think all the family were born in Rousay.

Issue (As far as I know)

1. George Reid 11 (in Wasdale) married Janet Harcus.

2. Peter Reid 1 (in Broch, on Westside) Married Mary Louttit.

3. Barbara Reid married William Mainland of Cot a Fea as his 2nd wife.

4. Betty Reid married John Johnstone in the Brinian.

5. Jean Reid married a Harcus, a brother of Janet Harcus mentioned above.

6. Mary Reid 1 died young, unmarried.

George Reid of Wasdale was born about 1806. He used to tell of an escapade of his when he was a very young child. He wandered up from Westness to the “Waters”, and was found somewhere between the Muckle Water and the Little Water which he thought were two seas. When brought home the lady of Westness, after giving him a piece of cake (fine bread he called it) laid her land on his head and said “thoo must not do that again”. He worked about Westness in his youth, went a-fishing as a young man, and was on two or more  voyages  to  the ‘straights’,  i.e.  the  Greenland  whale fishing.  Many a yarn he used to tell us boys about his whaling experiences. He was on one voyage, nearly frozen in, but fortunately they managed to get the ship out through a narrow channel. Otherwise they would have had to spend the winter amid Polar Ice and would probably never have been heard of again. He was first to spot the opening in the ice, and was highly commended for his alertness. I wish I could recall some of these yams but I have forgotten most of them.

He married Janet Harcus about 1830 or perhaps a year or two thereafter. Her family I have not been able to unravel satisfactory. It is very complicated somehow. Her father was a William Harcus and her mother a Christian or Christy Flaws, who lived to the great age of 103 years, and died at Wasdale. My father and aunt Lydia remembered her quite well. William Harcus must have died when the family were quite young.

George Reid 11 and his wife Janet Harcus

Grandmother was born about 1801, and as a child had a very hard life. She used to told me how she had to at the age of seven herd kye away in Sourin while her folk were on Westside, and got very (little) to eat from her employers. A sister Betty Harcus (aunt Betty we used to call her) was marred to Willie Robertson, and they lived as far back as can remember at Crey (where Shearer is now). Aunt Betty was a very cheery old lady and I used to like to go up and see her and old Willie, her man. He had lots of old world yarns which were very interesting, but grandfather said to think he put on too much “side”.

To return to the Reids, George 11 and Janet Harcus were a short time in the Brinian; in what house I did not know. Then they were in Pow on the Westside close to Scabra Head, now almost obliterated, and most of the family were born there, except the eldest two perhaps who were born in the Brinian. They lived there till about 1850 or thereabouts, when the landlord, George Traill of Veira, cleared all his Westside tenants out and turned the whole district into a large farm of Westness. Most of the tenants got holdings elsewhere on the estate, either in Wasbister or Sourin or one or two in Frotoft. Grandfather got Wasdale, which was part of a “three penny land of Overdaile” (i.e. Ervadale) as it was described in the old rentals. It was not called Wasdale then though, but simply Newhouse. Grandfather built the house and steading with his own hands mostly, and broke out a great deal of the land and our folks after a time named the place Westdale or Wasdale as it lay west of the other two dales, Ervadale and Brendale. He went to the fishing, did all sorts of odd jobs of carpentry and mason work, etc, for the folks round about, and worked hard all his days. He was a very jolly old soul. The oldest boy William died when only 11 years old in Pow, and grandfather never seemed to get over his loss. My father was born shortly after his death and was named William also after his older brother.

Grandmother died in 1894 and grandfather a few years after. Thus the Reids continued in Wasdale for some 80 years – from about 1850 till it was sold in 1930.

Issue of George 11 and Janet Harcus,

1. William 1 died aged 11 years

2. George 111

3. Mary 11

4. John 1

5. Peter 11

6. Hannah

7. William 11

8. Lydia

Third Generation:

George 111 born about 1835, went to sea, then was in New Zealand for a time at the gold diggings with his brothers John and Peter. Was the first skipper of the first Rousay steamer ‘Lizzie Burroughs’ for a year or two. Married Mary Shearer, a Tankerness woman about 1880 or ’81. Gave up the sea after a few years and kept a shop in Wellington Street, Kirkwall till his death in 1905.

Issue:

1. George 4 now a chemist in Kirkwall married May Reid, an Edinburgh woman.

No issue.

2. Mary Reid 11 married her cousin John Mainland, son of Barbara Reid and William Mainland of Cot a Fea. Lived all her married life at Cot a Fea.

Issue

1. John Mainland of Cott – 3 Children.

2. George Mainland in Rysa – 2 children, I dead.

3. Mary Mainland in Crusday, married Dannie Mackay – no issue.

John Reid 1 went to New Zealand as a young man about 1857 in the days of the gold rush. Working at gold diggings for about 15 years, then returned to home. Married Sarah, daughter of James Mainland of Tratland. Drowned in Evie Sound off the Rousay Mail boat in the autumn of 1893:-

1. John 11 joiner in Glasgow. Issue – 2 children.

2. Maggie married Peter Reid 4 as his second wife.

3. George 5, now in Tratland issue? (Don’t know how many).

4. Anna.

5. Mary 3. Both living in Gripps, unmarried.

Peter Reid 2, served apprenticeship as a cabinetmaker in Kirkwall. Was a great swimmer. Went to New Zealand about 1860 to the gold diggings. Married a Charlotte Stewart and settled there for life. Died some dozen years ago I think. No issue.

Hannah Reid, born about 1841. Married about 1859 James Leonard of Digro lived in Digro till evicted by Burroughs, the landlord about 1886. In Kirkwall for a year or two, then went to Oban, where both died.

Issue a family of 14.

1. George Leonard, died of diphtheria in Digro.

2. John Reid Leonard, Died in Oban. Was married to a Highland woman there.

3. Hannah Leonard, born 1864. Still living in Oban. Unmarried.

4. James Leonard born 1866, went to Canada as a young boy. Married there a Highland Woman. Sailed the Lakes. Engineer in Government Service;

Issue 5 children, one of whom was killed in the war.

5. Fredrick Leonard born about 1869. In the service of the Northern Lighthouse Commissioners, on their steamer ‘Hesperus’. Unmarried.

6. Isabella Leonard born about 1871. Married a Pearson in Oban. Issue 5 or 6 children.

7. Annie Leonard born about 1874 or ’75. Married a David Sinclair from Sanday. Both were in the Hotel service in Oban or elsewhere. He died a few years ago.

Issue 5 children I think.

8. and 9. Arthur Leonard and William Leonard, both died in infancy at Digro because of diphtheria at the same time as their brother George.

10. Alfred Leonard works (or idles) about Oban. Unmarried.

11. George Leonard 2. Married in Oban. Coal merchant. Has issue but I don’t know how many.

12. Edith Leonard, married a man Ogg in Aberdeen, in the Post Office service and still lives there. Issue 2 or 3 but I don’t know how many actually.

13.  Archibald Leonard now in Glasgow. Married. Issue unknown to me.

14. Lydia Leonard. In Oban. Issue unknown to me.

William Reid 2. Born in Pow, Westside, in 1843. Married Catherine Baikie from Stromness, 1863. Went fishing in his younger days. Started as a carpenter and joiner after, and continued that business until stopped by Burroughs the landlord. Was a short time in Edinburgh but soon returned owing to strikes and bad trade. He and his father, George 2 worked the farm of Wasdale jointly for a few years until George 2 failed in health, when he took over the whole farm, succeeding to the rights of the Crofter’s Act on his father’s death. Latterly he suffered much from asthma but continued working until a few days before his death. He died of pneumonia, 29th May 1915.

Issue:

1. George William 6, born 1864. Married (1905) Margaret Yorstan, daughter of Capt James Yorstan, the Ayre, Kirkwall, and Margaret Inkster. She died 31st Jan. 1930. No issue (Author of these notes)

2. Mary Catherine, born 1868. Milliner in Kirkwall for many years then worked at Wasdale after her father’s death. Now resident in Kirkwall since November 1930. Unmarried. Died 9/8/47.

3. Lydia 2, born 1867 or ’68. Died in infancy when only a few weeks old.

4. Peter Reid 4 (Peter 3 was son of Peter 1, 1st generation in Broch) born 1869. Went to Coatbridge Post Office under Mr John Louttit as a young man. Passed through grades to chief clerk. Then as Post Master at Gourock till laid aside by illness. Died 28.11 29.

Married 1. Mary Arthur in Coatbridge. She died 27.10.18.

Married 2. Maggie Reid, his cousin. Daughter of cousin John, above.

         Issue on the first marriage:-

         1. William 4.
         2. James Arthur
         3. Margaret Dean (Peggy)

5. Jessie Harcus born 1872. Worked at Wasdale all her life. She and her sister Mary Catherine became joint proprietors of the farm for a few years until 1930 when they sold it and came to reside in Kirkwall. Unmarried. Died 19.12.1945.

6. William John 3, born 27 Jan. 1874. While at school at Sourin herded cattle at Ervadale for a summer or two. Served apprenticeship as a joiner with his father. Was a harvest or two at Ha’breck in Wyre. He and his father did the joiner work of several houses in Rousay. He was very clever with his hands and could do some fine work. He had a great fund of natural humour, and had more mental capacity I think than any of us. He went to Edinburgh and worked at his trade for nearly two years. I do not know anything of the firms with whom he worked. After a short holiday with his younger brother, James and myself went up to Oban in the summer if 1897, he took typhoid fever, and died at the end of August that year in Edinburgh City Hospital. Father went south just after James and I came home, and was with him to the end. He is buried in Warriston Cemetery, Edinburgh. Unmarried.

7. James Marwick born 24th February 1876. Served apprenticeship with father and worked at home for a few years. Then at Melsetter in Walls as an estate joiner to Middlemore for a year or two. Worked in Kirkwall for a year or so with S. Baikie & Son. Then went to Coatbridge and eventually to Glasgow in pursuit of his trade. Married in 1915 Kate Muir, whose father belonged to Sanday. Has a small business of his own now in Glasgow.

         Issue 3 children: 1. Betty (in full Elizabeth Catherine) 2. Thelma (Thelma Campbell) 3. George William 7

The Reid siblings just mentioned above: Peter, born September 3rd 1869; George, born
November 20th 1864; James, on February 24th 1875; Mary, July 16th 1866; Jessie,
April 10th 1871; and William, who was born on January 17th 1873. Their sister
Lydia was born on February 25th 1868, but she died in infancy. Photo c.1895

Lydia Reid: Born about 1845 at Pow Westside. Lived at Wasdale practically all her life till after the death of her father, George 2. Then came to Kirkwall, where she lived for some years. Suffered greatly from asthma and other chest troubles and died in the spring of 1913 or ’14. Unmarried.

Additional notes on the Reids. George Reid 1 must have at least one brother and one sister, for George 11 of Wasdale used to tell of an aunt of his called Peggy Reid, who was said to been a very beautiful young woman, but she apparently died young. Then the Reid family in Glasgow – George Reid who lives down Whiteinch way – are of the same stock. That George’s father was Thomas Reid, schoolmaster in Sourin after the Education Act of 1872 came into force, who continued to live in the old school after he ceased teaching. Now, he and my grandfather, George of Wasdale were second cousins. Therefore his father and my grandfather, George of Wasdale would have been full cousins, and consequently, their fathers must have been bothers.

There are also Reids in Shapinsay who are somehow connected with us, but I have not ascertained what the actual connection is. Thus there are many problems to be solved before one could make out a complete pedigree of the clan.

…………………………………………………………

A cutting from the Edinburgh Evening Courant, dated July 6th 1858

George Reid, the Rousay Centenarian

Below is the ‘doggerel verse’ alluded to above. It is reproduced with the permission of the editors of The Orkney View, issue No. 54, published in June/July 1994.

‘The following poem was sent to us by J. O. Sclater of Orphir, whose father was given it by Robert Johnson of Scows, Orphir around 1920.

It is thought that George Reid, who died in 1858, was Mr Johnson’s great-grandfather. Who the writer was is not known.’

I had often heard of one, George Reid,
In Rousay he did dwell:
That long he worked with plough and spade;
The truth I mean to tell.

His name in print had lately been,
When some account was given
That George the wondrous age had seen,
One hundred years and seven.

I therefore to that isle did go,
And climbed up the hill,
And there I found old George, who
Was hale and hearty still.

My man went in to break the tale,
Which was by my desire,
And George was sipping milk and meal,
As sitting by the fire.

I went into the house also,
And there beheld the scene;
And told George I should like to show
Him to our gracious Queen.

The snow had fell the day before,
Which rather troubled me.
Yet George agreed to come outdoors,
And sit just as you see.

A second time I asked him out.
He said he was quite willing;
He knew well what he was about,
So asked of me a shilling.

When out of doors, the sun and snow
That in his eyes brought tears,
In all respects he looked as though
He still might live for years.

His cheeks were full and colour good,
With some teeth, strange to say,
With which to masticate his food;
His beard was scarcely grey.

And when he sat down in his chair,
I did his portrait take;
I must confess it made me stare –
His head nor hand did shake.

Two days before that I came there
He travelled up the hill,
Unto a neighbouring house that’s near,
And that of his own will.

To beg a little weed so dear –
You will think this a joke –
But since he turned his hundredth year,
Old George had learned to smoke.

His sight and hearing are quite good,
His intellect also;
He spoke of things he understood
An hundred years ago.

He said that he from Westray came,
And made me understand,
The year that he was born, the same
Was famine in the land.

A castle in that isle yet stands.
I asked him also
If he remembered that Northland
An hundred years ago.

He told me yes, and gave the name
Of people who lived there.
From others I have learned the same –
It is an hundred years.

His calling I desired to know.
He let me understand
His business was to plough and sow,
And help to till the land.

His food was on a moderate scale,
And that his humble dish.
A few potatoes, milk and meal,
Sometimes a little fish.

I asked him how his health was still.
He said he had been queer;
And had indeed been very ill
When in his hundredth year.

For five years past, as he told me,
Much better he had been;
It was a pleasant sight to see,
He looked so neat and clean.

I now had carried out my plan,
That had much pleasure given;
I took my leave of this old man,
AN HUNDRED YEARS AND SEVEN.

……………………………………………….

*Following the poem in the last issue about George Reid, the Rousay centenarian, Tommy Gibson from Brinola, Rousay tells us that Reid had been born in Westray in 1755 and came to Rousay to work for the Traills at Westness House. He was ‘cleared’ from Quandale and later farmed in Woo in Sourin for a short time, ending up in Garson on the Westside. The man who took Reid’s photograph was Queen Victoria’s photographer in Scotland whom she specially sent to Rousay. It is unlikely that Reid was 107 as the poem stated. It is estimated that he died at the age of 104.

…………………………………………………

Graham Lyon of Sandwick has been good enough to share a pictorial version of his Reid family tree. Starting with bottom right, his mother Sheila Lyon. Bottom middle, his grandmother Lydia Mary (Edda) Mainland. Bottom left, his great-grandfather John Mainland. Middle right, his great-great-grandmother Mary Reid. Top right, his great-great-great-grandfather George Reid. And main picture the man himself, his great-great-great-great-grandfather George Reid.

Categories
History

The Island’s History



Amidst the great tides of the Atlantic and the North Sea lies an Orkney island steeped in ancient history. From the Stone Age to the present, the seas have brought to Rousay a blend of peoples who have left a calendar of their lives for all to see. Having been inhabited for over 5,000 years there are over 166 sites of archaeological interest and an important crofting history. The island provides as rich a spectrum of settlement as can be found anywhere in Northern Europe, with evidence of Neolithic, Stone and Bronze Age, Pictish, and Viking habitation.

Midhowe broch, overlooking Eynhallow Sound
Midhowe stalled cairn, dating from the 3rd millennium BC

Much of the island has been officially designated as a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. The moors are inhabited by birds such as the Red-throated Diver, Hen Harrier, Buzzard, and Merlin, while its maritime heaths are home to colonies of Arctic Tern and Arctic and Great Skua. The northwest coast has a range of dramatic cliff formations with considerable colonies of Guillemot, Razorbill, Puffin, Kittiwake and Fulmar.

Pictured below: Primula scotica – which grows in only very selected places on Rousay. and a Red-throated diver, also known as the Loon or Rain Goose.

Quandale and Westness were the only areas in Orkney to have suffered a major Clearance. In the mid-19th Century 210 people were evicted by George William Traill as part of the modernisation of his Westness estate. Succeeded by his nephew General Sir Frederick William Traill Burroughs it was he who created such difficulties for the crofters that he gained the reputation as being the worst landlord in Orkney. His efforts resulted in troubled times and shaped the recent history of the island. Within this wild and open landscape of Quandale are found the relics of turf dykes, runrig farming and ruined crofts. This deserted community is now home for some of Rousay’s most rare and beautiful flowers and birds.

A Tammie-Norie and a Tystie on the Lobust

Rousay is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque islands in Orkney. Even today the greater part of its surface is covered with heather, and in the early days it can have offered but few attractions to the primitive agriculturalist in comparison with the lower-lying and more fertile islands of the group. Round the skirts of the isle, however, there are signs of cultivation  from  very  far-off  days; nor are indications lacking that the island was inhabited thousands of years earlier still – for how long exactly it is impossible to say, but a good idea of how long can be gained from the memorials left behind by these nameless folk of long ago.

To be able to understand who these people were and where and how they lived we owe much to the efforts of Walter Grant, who lived at Trumland House in the 1930’s. His investments in the whisky industry enabled him to invite some of the most influential archaeologists of the time to excavate the island’s sites – the Neolithic chambered cairns of Taversoe Tuick, Blackhammer, and the Knowe of Yarso, and Midhowe Cairn, the largest and longest of Orkney’s chambered cairns, which like the others dates from the 3rd millennium B.C. Just beyond that is the Broch at Midhowe, the best of a range of fortified dwellings built along the shore of Eynhallow Sound dating from the Bronze/Iron Age.

The house of Tofts at Quandale, with Costa Head on mainland in the distance

When the Neolithic settlement of Rinyo,  near  the  farm  of Bigland, was excavated it was found to be similar to Skara Brae, with at least seven houses. Like the more famous village, the houses had stone drains, fireplaces, beds and boxes. Now back-filled, only a few upright stones and drystone walls are visible today.

The Westness area of Rousay has been described as ‘the most important archaeological mile in Scotland,’ for it spans settlements from the first Stone Age farmers, the Pictish Iron Age, the Viking invaders, the period of the Earls of Orkney, through to the mid-19th century clearances when 210 people were evicted from Westness and Quandale by the laird, George William Traill.

Whitemaas – dancing with waves at Saviskaill

According to an old Rousay legend, when the first Norsemen came to the island they were confronted at landing by strange elf- or troll-like beings who marched down against them – armed with glittering spears. In such a curious fashion has been perpetuated the first meeting of the Norsemen with the alien Celtic race.

Who the  first  Viking  to  set  foot on Rousay was, we do  not know. One would be compelled to identify Rolf (Hrølfr) whose name is commemorated in the name of the island – Rousay, Hrølfsey – with Torf Einar’s half-brother of that name – Rolf the Ganger, who founded the Norse power in Normandy, but there can be no justification in doing so. It is known that he went from Norway to the Hebrides and could well have visited Orkney en route, but it is probable that Orkney was settled some generations at least before the great Viking age, and that had begun nearly a century before his day.

Replica Viking longship ‘Sea Stallion from Glendalough’ passing Sacquoy
Head, en route to Ireland – July 2007.

Besides the unknown Rolf, the names of a few other early settlers may be deduced from some of the farm-names in Rousay. The present farm-name Innister appears to be a corruption. The name does not appear in any of the early rentals, but in a deed of 1664 we find Rowland Insgaire in Insgaire. In the Valuation of 1653, this man evidently appears again as Roulland Ingsgarth. In a deed of 1671 the name appears as Ingsgair, and even as late as 1799 Innisgir in Wasbister is found in the Register of Births. By some strange accident the house name has now become Innister and the surname Inkster. The original form is doubtful, but almost certainly the first syllable represents a personal name.

Above: Both sides of the Hole o’ the Horse, Scabra Head

A clue to the original form of Hurtiso, a farm name in Sourin, is to be found in the 1492 Rental where Hurtiso, in Holm, appears as Thurstainshow – which translates to Thorstein’s mound.

The first syllable in Knarston is almost certainly also a personal name. In most cases in Orkney tunship-names, the termination –ston, which represents the dative plural of staðr, a stead, settlement, ‘tun,’ is suffixed to a man’s name, and this is unlikely to be an exception. There are two names suitable – Knorr and Narfi – and, as old forms of the name regularly show the initial K-, the former is to be preferred – Knarrar-stoðum, the settlement of Knorr.

Avalshay appears in both the 1500 and 1595 Rentals as Awaldschaw. The first part of the name represents a man called Augvald, and judging by the analogy of Horraldshay in Firth, which the 1500 Rental spells Thorwaldishow, and the Rental of 1595 Horraldsay and Horraldshay, we conclude that the Rousay name has been Augvaldshaugr, Augvald’s mound.

Lastly, in Frotoft, we have a form that points to an earlier Froða-topt, the site of a house of a man named Froði.

These four men – Froði, Augvald, Knorr, and Thorstein – were in all probability among the earliest Norse settlers in Rousay. They may even have been among those who, when landing, were challenged by the ‘glittering spears’; but to us today, none of them is more than a pale shadow of a name.

Western gable end of St Mary’s, the Westside kirk, and the ruins
of the farm of Skaill

Knowledge of the tunship settlements in Orkney is largely derived from the old Rentals. These Rentals were primarily tax-rolls showing the various skats or taxes due to the Earls or Bishops from each farm or tunship, and in addition, in the case of property lands belonging to the earldom or bishopric, the annual rents due from the tenants in occupation.

Rousay’s Westside, with Midhowe broch and cairn, St Mary’s kirk
and the farms of Brough and Skaill

From these Rentals we note that Orkney lands were  valued  in  terms of early Norse money as ouncelands and pennylands. The old Norse silver mark (actually a weight – about ½ lb.) was sub-divided  into  8  ounces  and in Orkney the ounce was  divided again into 18 pennies. Thus we find Orkney lands  valued  as  urislands (i.e. ouncelands, from the Old Norse øyrir, ounce) and pennylands – 1 urisland consisting of 18 pennylands.

Outer Westness included Brugh – a 7d. land; Skaill, a 5d. land; Whome (Quham) a 3d. land; and Quandale, a 3d. land – in all, one whole urisland.

Categories
Memories

Sourin – Part 1 of 4


The first of a four-part article
written by Tommy Gibson, Brinola, Rousay

Sourin is the largest of all the districts in Rousay. In the 1841 census 316 persons lived in 74 households compared with today (2003) with only 65 in 29 households. I remember about 1956-7 about 120 folk in Sourin. The terracing on the eastside of Kierfea at 762 feet, and the Head of Faraclett 341 feet, is very noticeable when coming into Sourin from the South. This was due to the ice age. The traditional divisions are to the south is the Red Road, or Kirk Brae, and to the north, the Council dump at the top of the Leean, and from Scockness up the Sourin Valley to the west. The different districts divisions in the hill are not very well defined. Sourin as its name suggests had a lot of sour wetland, especially under the north side of the hill of Knitchen. Sourin also boasts some excellent dry fertile land, with some of the best land in Sourin on the steepest fields. Traditionally the Blossan, or Hammermugly, at 455 feet was the highest elevated house lived in, in Orkney. Blackhammer in Wasbister is about the same elevation. Sourin is surrounded on three sides by hills.

Fa’doon dominates the foreground in this 1950s view of Sourin

To the east is the sea. If anyone stops on the public road below Hammermugly, they have before them the very best view in Orkney. This is from the Noup Head, Westray to Deerness to the south. All the north Isles and countless holms and skerries. On a very clear day, usually in summer time, Fair Isle can be seen over the Red Head, Eday. Foula can be seen over Papa Westray. Foula is on the same latitude as Lerwick but I have never seen any part of the Shetland mainland on the horizon. In the days of herring fishing out to the east of Orkney, fishing boats coming back, could not distinguish the Islands and Kierfea, being one of the highest points and was known as Culldee Hill, was one of the points of navigation.

Looking east from the top of the Sourin brae, with Bigland, Breck and Myres in the foreground; the Holm of Scockness;
the northern tip of Egilsay; the Westray/Stronsay Firth; the southern tip of Eday;
and the western coast of Stronsay in the distance

The Mill

The Sourin Mill is a large well-built stone building of three storeys, situated at the end of the Sourin burn near Lopness and Nethermill. This was the largest building in Sourin, and today still stands as straight and square as it was when it was built. On the west end of the building four plaques have the dates of 1777, 1861,1880 1937. The first date is presumably when the building was constructed. It is not known if there was a mill there before, and I doubt if there were. The wheel on the east end of the mill is a cast iron construction, and was made in sections. The wheel was 14 feet in diameter, and 4 feet across with 48 buckets. The axel, holding everything up, was 5 inches of solid steel. The arrangement at the wheel for the water was overshot, this was quite a powerful wheel to drive all the equipment, which were three sets of grinding wheels. The first one was for bere meal; the stone was from Derbyshire, called Derby Burr. The oatmeal stone was manufactured; it was made in sections and then banded with iron hoops, called a French Burr. The shelling stone usually came from Yesnaby in Sandwick. Also the hoist; this was to lift the sacks of grain to the top of the mill, and elevators and separators and fans. The water driving the wheel came from the Muckle Water, with a small dam that was built at Woo. A ditch was dug from the dam to the wheel above the burn to the mill course as the wheel was overshot. A wooden trap in the mill course diverted and governed the amount of water to and from the wheel. In the 1940’s a small shed was built at the rear of the mill.

The Sourin mill

This was a room to house a small dynamo driven by a small water wheel, to provide electric light in the mill. The only light was from paraffin lamps, and this was the only light used since the mill was built. Before the days of the mill, most of the houses had a kiln attached to the barn, which the corn and oats for drying was done. After the mill was built, a lot of drying was still done but then the grain was sent to the mill. This practice was continued up to the 1850’s, then more and more grain sent to the mill undryed. The kiln at the mill became too small, and in 1861 a larger kiln was built. This was slightly wider than the mill and slightly higher. This increased the floor area for grain drying. I have no record for 1880, but there must have been some structural work taken place. In 1937 the kiln took fire. The roof of the kiln was badly damaged and the mill was out of production for a while. Had the fire gone into the main building the whole lot would have been destroyed. There is a tremendous amount of timber in the mill. Heavy beams under the floor, holding up untold tons of grain, huge beams, a foot square holding up the hoist mechanism, which is housed in a wooden structure in front of the mill. Repairs to the kiln and a new roof was put on and the mill started up again.

The miller, or his son or servant, had to walk up to the tepping (sluice) early on a Monday morning to open the sluice as it took a few hours for the water to flow down. This water ran till Saturday when it was closed in the afternoon. The water ran on till 9-10 o’clock when the mill closed for the day. Only in the springtime when the water was not so plentiful that the sluice was closed every afternoon. The miller usually worked for 14 hours a day and six days a week and usually employed a kiln man and at busy times a labourer. On the average working day the mill ground 25 sacks of oats and 22 sacks of corn or bere. A sack of grain was 2 cwt, this was traditionally the correct weight for the mill, and the meal came in how (boll) sacks. A boll was 10 stone.

Corn or bere had only two rows of grain while barley has four. Long ago it was mainly black oats and red sandy; it was only in later years that heavier oats were available. The best yield was from the smaller oats. Products from the mill were oatmeal, bere meal, grapp and souan sids. Grapp was an inferior grade of grain and hull, ground for pig and poultry feed. Souan sids, was when the flour was riddled small bits of husk and the finest flour was gathered up. This was then soaked and made into a sharp porridge. I remember in the mid 1950’s Robbie Seatter of Banks had a square of corn growing in a field above the mill. The area was about half an acre, and this was about the last of the corn grown in Rousay for the Sourin mill.

A view of the Sourin mill from Egilsay

Each sack of grain weighed 2 cwt. each. This was traditionally the correct weights for the mill. Carts which came to the mill with grain usually went under the hatch in front of the mill. The grain was then lifted to the top of the mill by a hoist. Once the hoist was engaged the sack had to travel to the top of the mill. A chain with a loop was then put around the sack. Once a farmer put the chain around the sack, and unfortunately the hoist was engaged before his fingers were out of the chain. The miller looked down when he heard shouting. “Woe, woe, stop, stop,” the farmer was coming up holding on very, very tightly to the sack! The Sourin mill took most of the grain in Rousay. In the springtime when the weather dried, the Sourin mill had plenty of water and grain came from Westray, Eday, North Fara, Egilshay and Wyre. When the North Fara men came to the mill, they went to Hurtiso for a horse and cart to take the grain from the boat to the mill. Sometimes the horse was working, or in the hill, so they were quite happy with a cart. Fara men were big and strong: they pulled the cart themselves. Three Westray men were drowned near the Clett at Scockness. The boat was a Westray skiff, loaded with grain. Northerly wind and a back tide cause a nasty upheaval in the water along the Clett. The boat, perhaps too close to the shore, missed a tack and capsized at the shore. The mill was a meeting place for local boys from the district of an evening. Some of the more popular ones were going hand-over-hand over the twartbaeks (couple backs) in the roof. Another thing they did was to write their name on a wall using a fifty-six pound weight as a pen, hooked on their little finger and only very few of them could do this. In many ways it is a pity that the mill had to close, for it was a source of food and as a social gathering place in the evening for the people of the district, for news, views, contests and trivia etc. The mill closed down in 1955.

Peats

Sourin has a large area of peat banks, and this is situated below Blotchnie Fiold and Knitchen. Every household has a right to cut, dry and cart peats. Working in the hill, was thought by some, a pleasant job, others did not like the work. Access to this part of the hill in this area was by two roads. The lower road was past the Free Kirk, over the waddie (across the burn), past Breval and over the quagmire; this was an area of soft clay in the road where sometimes tractors and trailers mired. Tons of stones were carted there every year and tipped into road but they soon disappeared in the soft wet clay. The upper road was in by Knapper, past Curquoy then into the hill. Anyone who came out with a load of peats had right of way, carts and tractors going in to the hill had to get off the road when they met a load coming out. Every year up to about 1960, most of the Sourin men took a set day to repair both of the roads, and clean up ditches. The peat banks used by the Egilshay men was on the hill of Knitchen. The road to this hill went up past Kingerly and Clumpy. The Egilshay peats were built on a piece of land below the Gorehouse and the Geord of Banks along the shore. There are also old peat banks on the hill of Avelshay, with a road up past Classiquoy, and it is been a long time since this area was cut.

William Costie & son William carting peats back to Kingerly. c1900

The first peat banks in Rousay were on south side of the Brown Hill. The marks of the banks are still to be seen. The early peat cutters only cut the top tough moss. This was what was called “foggy” peats and when dried they carried home the dried peats on their back. The old folks thought that the black moss would not burn properly. It was less than two hundred years since they discovered that black peats were the best burning. In the days of the estate anyone needing a peat bank went to the land officer; he in turn told the gamekeeper, who set out the bank. Malcolm Hourie of Braehead was the last gamekeeper to lay off peat banks. The last bank laid off by the gamekeeper was about 1958-9. The length of a peat bank was usually governed by the state and depth of the moss at the upper end of the bank. Gock heeds, was tussock grass with roots that was nearly impossible to cut; this made banks bad to work. The width of the bank was for twenty-one years cutting. I know that there was no record of the peat banks kept in Rousay. Everyone knew their own bank, but they also knew nearly every bank in the hill. Woe betide if anyone went into the hill and cut the wrong bank. I suppose that there are not many folk alive today who know the proper location of many of the banks. Where is the banks of Digro, Swartifield, Grindleysbreck, Feelyha’? Very few folk know, most folk don’t care. The peat bank then went with a particular house. If that tenant or owner left that house, he lost the peat rights of that particular bank. When a household became empty, folk left the Island or died, and if someone asked for the use of that peat bank, they could only use that bank under sufferance. They still had no right to that bank. The house that he went to had a separate bank, and if there were any dispute, the gamekeeper was sent to sort it out.

John Craigie, Breck, Jimmy Rendall, Braes,
and James William Grieve, Outerdykes

The old peat banks on Brown Hill, below Loomachun.

In the 1960’s folk from other districts came to the Sourin hill for peats. Some of the older men in Sourin were not pleased about this. By this time fewer and fewer folk were going to the hill and a large number of peats banks were idle. Roads to the other part of the hills were becoming impassable. If a bank had not been cut for three years, some said they could cut this bank, and by this time there were plenty of spare banks in the hill, and little attention was paid to this. A day’s work in the hill was called a “doward”, traditionally started at 7 o’clock working till 11-30. A break to 1 o’clock then finished at 6. Plenty of food and home brew ale usually went to the hill as well. In the 1930’s it was not uncommon to see 30 to 40 folk in the hill flaying, cutting or spreading peat. Long ago the men went to the hill for flaying (removing the top turf) the bank and when it came to cutting women nearly always took out the peats. This was by far the heaviest job in the hill. Women then usually did most of the work, spreading and setting up the peats to dry. In olden days women used to wear spleetos (combinations) and some did not. On a dry windy day summers day, with the ladies bending over the peats, dare I say more.

Taking home the peats. Ronnie Shearer crossing the Sourin burn. 1938

In the first half of the last century the average farm would use around 100 cartloads of peats. In Sourin the road to the hill was quite level and was not too a heavy pull on the horse. A load of peats in a cart was about 8 to 10 barrow load, again depending on the size of the horse. Some of the smaller houses only had work ox. A big work ox was extremely strong, but very slow. An ox was not as handy as a horse because it could not go backwards. The cart shafts had to be lifted over the back of its back, and if pulling a sleigh, they had to be turned into the front then hitch up. If, for example, someone living at Goarhouse went to the hill for a load of peats with an ox, on a hot day, it would take hours and hours. Some of the oxen would pull sledges piled up with peats and this was quite a heavy load. Horse and carts were about twice the speed of an ox. The roads were very busy when peat-carting time came. Farmers tried to avoid getting behind a slow work ox. Certain places along the road there were passing places and meeting places. Empty carts coming into the hill always gave way to the loaded carts going out. When the peats were finally carted a huge stack was usually built near to the house. Some of the stacks in other places were built with the peats in a herringbone effect, but in Rousay the peat’s in the stack was always built flat. With peat fires and thatched roofs, and stockyards near to the dwelling house, high winds meant sparks and hot ashes came out of the chimney on very windy nights; some houses gave a spectacular display of sparks out of the chimney. There were never any house fires or stacks burnt down due to sparks as far as I know in the parish. In the olden days the folk followed a certain code about the hill and the way they worked the hill. They went about their duties cutting the peats, spreading, setting up and carting, and if for any reason someone needed help, nearly every one rallied around. There has not been any peat’s cut in Rousay since 1999.


All black & white photos are courtesy of the author.

Categories
Anthology

Katherine Craigie – The Rousay Witch


The information recorded in the Register of the Privy Council of Scotland regarding the witchcraft case of Jonet Reid, Orkney, 1643, contains documents from the proceedings during her trial – both of the dittay [(Scots law) the accusation or charge against a person in a criminal case] and of the depositions from her neighbours – charging her of practising witchcraft, sorceries, superstitions, and charms, and of meeting with the devil, ‘her master’. There are ten accusations in total. The following is a brief summary of the neighbours’ accusations:

William Kirknes declared that he heard Jonet mention that she was ‘drying corn for the devil’, and that she offered him some grass of which she claimed, if used in his crops, would make his corn grow better. Robert Sinclair said that he was cured of impotency from a liquid that Jonet made for him to take with his meat. He also claimed to have been advised by Jonet, upon hearing that he was seeing apparitions of his first wife during his sleep, to go to her grave and tell her to trouble him no more. According to Sinclair, after Jonet visited his home and drank of his cow’s milk; the cow bled from then on when milked, until she died. John Kirknes and Elspett Sinclair both declared that Jonet came to their houses, and upon finding them very sick, held them and spoke certain words to cure them. Alexander Linkletter, being another neighbour that apparently was really sick before Jonet ‘spoke certain words to him’ claimed that he was cured within two days to go back to work, from an illness that had him fourteen days bed ridden. According to Alexander, Jonet also tried to cure a child of his that was sick, although no change was noted to have occurred with the child.

The collected accusations above declared by various neighbours of Jonet Reid led the jury to their unanimous decision in July of 1643 that her hands be bound behind her back, and she be brought to the stake and burnt to her ashes.

Katherine Craigie was sentenced to death on 12th July 1643 “for airt and pairt of the using and practeising of the witchcraftis, sorceries, divinatiounes and superstitiounes…”. Katherine Craigie was from Orkney; as were Marable Coupar (1624), Marion Richart (1630), and Jonet Reid (1643) – previous witchcraft cases we have examined from Orkney. In fact Jonet Reid’s trial (Erica Regan’s case) also took place on 12th July 1643, the same day as Katherine Craigie’s. It is possible that they could have been tried together, however there is no mention of this in the Register of the Privy Council of Scotland.

Katherine Craigie’s case was mentioned in Larner’s ‘Source Book of Scottish Witchcraft’. According to Larner’s Source Book there were four other witches tried in Orkney in July 1643; Elizabeth Ranie, the husband of Elizabeth Ranie, Margaret Ranie and Christine Poock. The source book states that these four people were all mentioned/branded as witches by an accused person. It is likely that either Katherine Craigie or Jonet Reid named them as witches during their trial.

DITTAY:

(This lists the formal accusations against the alleged and was written in the second person, addressed to the accused. This dittay contains 13 items. The accusations against Katherine Craigie were made by various neighbours, and are concerned with healing, death, devilry and superstition.)

Item 1 – James Caithness from Rowsay had gone over to Westray for the day to do some work. Due to very bad weather he could not get home to his house, in the meantime his wife was worried and wondering where he was. Katherine Craigie went to her and said “Give me some cloth, enough to make a handkerchief, and your husband shall get fair weather to come home shortly”. In the morning the weather became fair and James returned home…”quilk was done be your witchcraft and devilrie”.
– Confessed only that she said that if she was given alms, God would send fair weather.
– Found guilty.

Item 3 – Five years previously Thomas Irwing younger lay very sick in Quondale. Katherine performed the three stones and water ritual on Thomas. He then rose from his bed and Katherine led him to the sea. He was very frightened. Katherine poured three handfuls of water over his head, then they returned to the house. Every day after this he got better…”quilk was done be your witchcraft and devilrie”.
– Confessed to going to the sea and pouring the water on Thomas’s head.
– Found guilty.

Item 4 – Katherine was accused of cursing Margaret Craigie’s calf. The calf had eaten a bit of Katherine’s flax plant and Katherine was very angry and said to Margaret, “Ye shall nevir milk hir, dogis sall eat her”. After this cursing, Margaret Craigie’s calf died and was found having been scavenged by dogs.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 5 – Katherine went to Henrie Windwik’s house, who lay very ill. She advised Henrie to walk around the loch with her in stormy weather. Henrie refused to do this and later told the kirk session of Katherine’s odd behaviour. Shortly after this Katherine was at Essen Corses’s house and she told him of Henrie Windwik’s reports against her. Katherine told Essen that within a year Henrie would be dead. A year later Henrie did die. After this death Essen Corse told Henrie’s wife of the words Katherine had muttered against Henrie. This was also reported to the kirk session. On the day of the session meeting Essen Corse went to the sea to catch fish with his young son, and Essen was drowned at sea…”quilk was done be your witchcraft and devilrie”.
– Denied.
– Found guilty of the two deaths.

Item 6 – Katherine went to the house of William Flawis in Cogar, William was very sick. She was accused of quarrelling with William’s servant woman, Margaret Irwing. The next day Margaret came into the house and found Katherine standing over the ill William holding something in her hands. Katherine held the object to Margaret’s ear, and Margaret heard a clicking noise and asked what it was. Katherine replied that it was a stone which was split in two and water had entered inside both halves…”quilk was done be your witchcraft and devilrie”.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 7 – A number of years ago Katherine Craigie was staying at the house of Margaret Craigie, and if Katherine was out of the house, when she returned she was able to tell Margaret all the private and secret things that Margaret had talked about in her absence, and such “revelatioun and foir-knowledge ye haid of the devill, your master”.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 8 – Similar accusation as Item 7. Katherine Craigie was accused of repeating all the secrets that Katherine Windwick had spoken in her house, when Katherine Craigie had been out.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 9 – Katherine was accused of stroking Magnus Harca’s painful leg, and curing him of the terrible pain…”quilk was done be your witchcraft and devilrie”.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 10 – Last year Magnus Craigie in Skaebrek was very sick, Jonet Ingsger his wife was on her way to Hunclet to seek help for him, and on the way she met Katherine, and told her of her husband’s sickness. Katherine said that she had Ursalla Alexanderis “snood” (a ribbon bound round the brow and tied at the back under the hair, worn especially by young unmarried women; a symbol of virginity) and that she would give it to Jonet to tie round her husband’s waist, and this would cure and heal him.
– Confessed that she had Ursalla’s snood, and had said that if it would help her husband, Jonet could have it.
– Found guilty. This was seen as superstitious.

Item 11 – Katherine Barnie went to Katherine Craigie’s house, when she was out, and went to Katherine’s “heavie”?? On the wall of the “heavie” hung a spindle and 3 blades of grass tied in a knot in a handkerchief. Katherine Barnie told Annabill Murray of what she had seen and shortly after this Annabill contracted a lingering disease and died…”quilk wes done be your witchcraft”.
– Denied.
– Found guilty.

Item 12 – Three years previously Katherin Ethay, spous to John Work in Egilschae was married in the kirk. Before they were married together Katherine Craige told Katherin Ethay that when she moved from Rowsay to Egilschae she must remember to take her wash “cog” (a wooden bowl) and her cat to her new home.
– Denied.
– NOT found guilty. Cleared of this accusation.

General Item – “And generall, ye, the said Katherine, ar indytit and accusit for contraveining the tenour of the said act of Parliament and for airt and pairt of the using and practeising of the witchcraftis, sorceries, divinatiounes, and superstitiounes… and that by your cursings and superstitiounes that wrongis and hurtis both man and beast, quilk evills ar brocht to pas by your devilrie and the working of the devil, your master…”

VERDICT

Alexander Kirkness, in Myre, was appointed chancellor of the assyse. He stated that they had found Katherine Craigie guilty of 11 items of the dittay and also the general item, she was cleared of the 12th item.

SENTENCE

Katherine Craigie was then taken by the lockman “hir handis behind hir back, and caryit to the place of execution and thair wirreit at a staik and burnt in ashes”.

It would seem that Katherine Craigie was a healer in the community. Almost half of the accusations made against her by her neighbours were to do with healing someone and curing them. With this in mind it would appear that Katherine Craigie was a relatively ‘good witch’. Katherine Craigie’s case is similar to many other witch trials in that she was accused of cursing animals and people which resulted in their deaths. Although she is accused of having the devil as her master, there is no suggestions in the dittay that she ever met him.

St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
Marwick’s Hole

The Cathedral Dungeon: “…that Marwick’s Hole was a name of terror to the most hardened transgressors we have abundant proof.” [B. H. Hossack – Kirkwall in the Orkneys.]

St Magnus Cathedral has the distinction of being the only cathedral in the British Isles with its own dungeon. This holding-pen, known as “Marwick’s Hole” was in use as late as the eighteenth century. It would have been here that Katherine Craigie was incarcerated before being led away to meet her fate.

The identity of the “Marwick” who gave his name to the chamber is not known. Was he in some way involved in its construction or use? Or perhaps one of the first occupants?

It is not clear when Marwick’s Hole was actually created, but one source claims it dates from around 1540-1558 – the era of Bishop Robert Reid.

The chamber is found between the south wall of the choir and the south transept chapel. Upon first glance the area seems unremarkable – merely another section of wall – but up above eye-level is a dark opening that betrays the existence of the prison.

“Many a time has the Cathedral echoed with the screams and imprecations of reluctant women and men on their way, short as it was, to the dreaded Marwick’s Hole.” [B. H. Hossack.]

Originally the detention chamber was accessed from an upper chamber, the prisoners being deposited into Marwick’s Hole via a chute.

“When an unfortunate was sentenced to imprisonment he glided gently from the hall of justice directly into his cell. Once in escape was impossible, and when the aperture was closed the unhappy occupant was in total darkness.” [B. H. Hossack.]

This method of imprisoning wrongdoers changed in later years. According to Hossack, in Kirkwall in the Orkneys: “[the Protestant clergy] blocked the easy shoot, opened a door in the built up window, and from the south transept chapel, where they sit, send their prisoners round into the church and up a ladder into their cell.”

Leg irons – relics from the Cathedral’s past.
The old curfew bell, and the hangman’s ladder


References:

Maidment, J., and Turnbull, W., eds 1837 ‘Witchcraft Sorcery and Superstition in Orkney
in Abbotsford Club Miscellany vol I, pp.135-85 (Edinburgh)

B. H. Hossack ‘Kirkwall in the Orkneys‘ – Wm Peace & Son, Kirkwall 1900

Categories
Sourin

Sourin Map

A map of the area between Avelshay and Banks in Sourin showing the location of all the houses and farms.

‘Reproduced with the permission of the National Library of Scotland’
[Note: I have added colour, and edited the text for the sake of clarity.]

Categories
The Brinian

Trumland Farm

This painting of Trumland farm could be by John Logie, and though it is not signed it is in his style.
He was the butler at Trumland House, and was an accomplished artist and photographer.

Trumland Farm is first mentioned in old parish records as being occupied by ‘John of Trimland’ in 1503. In the 1595 Rental Trumland was skatted as a 2d. land, lying on either side of the Burn of Trumland, which flows down from the Hass of Trumland, on the southern slopes of the hills of Blotchniefiold and Knitchin. Later tenants were named as Magnus Trumbland, between 1653 and 1655, William Miller in 1702, Magnus Bancks, in 1706, and James Banks between 1737 and 1774.

In the 1840’s Trumland was farmed by Peter Yorston. He originally lived at Oldman, Sourin, and in 1813 at Corse, Frotoft, he married Rebecca Craigie, daughter of Mitchell Craigie and Rebekah Marwick of Hullion. They had three children; Peter, was born on May 8th 1814; Mary, on July 23rd 1816; and Ann, who was born on January 19th 1823.

Another tenant at Trumland at this time was James Yorston, who was in his 80’s. His son, also called James, farmed the land alongside Peter Yorston, but to my knowledge they were not directly related.

By the time the census of 1851 was carried out James Yorston and his family had left Rousay. Peter Yorston had died and his widow Rebecca lived at Bare Braes, a small croft above Cogar, with her daughter Ann, who by then was a 27-year-old straw plaiter.

Robert Scarth was the notorious factor of George William Traill’s Rousay estate and it was he who was the architect of the clearance of the Quandale crofters after the harvest of 1845. These clearances occurred in two phases: 1845-48, and 1855-59, by which time the cottars finally lost residual rights to keep animals and cultivate land.

The farm at Trumland had been taken over by Robert Scarth’s son George, a 30-year-old farmer from Kirkwall, paying an annual rent of £39 12s 3d, with the interest on improvements added. He lived there with his Orphir-born wife Catherine Robertson, sons Robert (6) and James (3), who were born in Firth, and 8-month-old daughter Catherine. Also living at Trumland at this time were farm labourers John Shearer (22) from Stronsay, and 19-year-old James Inkster, housekeeper Mary Craigie, who was 24 years old, and John Johnston, a 13-year-old herd.

By the time of the next census, 1861, George and Catherine had had another four children, John, George, Robina, and Thomas. George was farming 70 acres of land at Trumland, but this had increased to 92 by 1871. George Scarth retired as factor in 1873 – and after that things were different at Trumland. Rent arrears hardly existed under Scarth, despite a steady increase in rent, but he saw to it that tenants managed to pay their dues with relative ease. Very soon after his retirement rents increased rapidly between 1873 and 1883. Robert Scarth’s son-in-law John MacRae acted as factor during the first three years of this period and was very unpopular with the Rousay crofters. He was also Orkney’s Procurator Fiscal and the laird, General Burroughs’ personal lawyer, which didn’t help matters much either.

In the 1870’s Burroughs spent £2,608 on Trumland farm, but despite this ambitious programme of building, draining, reclaiming, and fencing, there was never a time when the farm operated at a profit as long as it was under Burroughs’ management. The loss on Trumland Farm was regularly about £180 a year. He spent a further £1,320 on non-agricultural improvements, largely houses for his servants, including his yacht-master, and a cottage for the drill sergeant of the Rousay Volunteers. In 1875 a new resident factor was employed to manage the estate. He was George Murrison and he and his wife Mary lived at Viera Lodge.

The census of 1881 reveals no less than five families living and working on the Trumland estate. The first of these was Charles Johnston, his wife Ann Harrold, and their four children. Charles was the son of John Johnston, Brinian, and Elizabeth Reid, Pow, Westside. Charles’s wife Ann was the daughter of James Harrold of Boray, Gairsay, and his first wife Isabella Gibson of Langskaill.

Farm labourer James Logie was employed as a farm labourer at Trumland at this time. He was the son of John Logie, Geo, Westness, and Mary Craigie, Whome, and he was born in June 1829. He was married to Betsy Gibson, daughter of Alexander Gibson and Isabel Marwick, and she was born in June 1823 when the family were living at Stennisgorn, Wasbister.

Note the cottage to the right of the farm buildings at Trumland – known as Dishans

36-year-old John Manson was employed as Trumland’s grieve. In those days a farm’s grieve held the responsibility of managing the farm, and was mainly engaged in supervision and allocation of duties; he would also superintend the work of agricultural labourers, e.g., carters, cowman; and was at liberty to buy and sell produce and equipment on the laird’s behalf. John was from Watten, Caithness, as was his wife Alexandrina. They had five children at that time, Sidney, John, Duncan, Donald, and Jessie. Under the same roof were four farm workers – James Marwick (24), Donald Allan (22), Mary Marwick (20), who were farm servants, and 20-year-old Mary Leask, from Stenness, who was a dairymaid.

By 1891 Trumland Farm had a manager – 47-year-old Peter Swanson from Thurso. His wife Margaret Manson was from Canisbay, and with them were their children; George, a fifteen-year-old apprentice joiner, scholars John, Peter, Catherine and William. Under another roof at the farm were Barbara Rosie, a 33-year-old dairymaid from Burray; William Leask from Kirkwall, who was employed as a farm servant; and Mary Marwick, a 32-year-old general servant.

Living at the Old Mill at this time were farm servant John Cutt and his wife Mary Craigie – and general labourer James Logie and his wife Betsy Gibson.

A John Logie photograph taken at the entrance to Trumland Farm,
with part of the cottage of Dishans to the right

Dishans was the name of a cottage on the left of the track down to Trumland farmhouse. Little or nothing is known of it – but it could well have been named after its occupants – Mr and Mrs Dishan! The 1901 census tells of crofter James Dishan [52] from Evie and his wife Christina [53] of Westray living at West Craye, Sourin. By the time the 1911 census was carried out Christina was a ‘ploughman’s widow’, living at Gue, Westness. I’m guessing James was employed on the farm and this is where he and Christina lived during that time.

Ploughing at The Goard of Trumland c1908
Shearing sheep on the farm c1900
A carefully composed photo by John Logie in one of the fields above Trumland farmhouse

Between 1894 and 1900 David Wood was paying an annual rent of £110 at Trumland farm. Come the census of 1901 the resident farmer was 26-year-old Hamilton Hebden Horne [known as Hamish] from Warsetter, Sanday. He was the son of farm factor Adam Horne and Robina Strong. On November 23rd 1900 he married 29-year-old school teacher Betsy Ann Marwick, daughter of carpenter Hugh Marwick and Lydia Gibson, Guidall, Sourin. Under the same roof lived Margaret Louttit, a 24-year-old domestic servant, and two farm servants, Donald Robson (16), and James Inkster (24). The Old Mill was occupied by 42-year-old ploughman John Shearer, who was born in Stronsay, and his wife Catherine (39) was from Sandwick. They had six children: Catherine, at that time a 16-year-old domestic servant, Janet (9), Eliza (7), and Peter (5) who were all at school, and 2-year-old William, and Violet, who was just 2 weeks old when the census was carried out.

Rousay ploughing match in the pier field, Trumland Farm

Ten years on [1911] and 67-year-old widow Eliza Craigie from Evie was head of the household at Trumland, and registered as farmer/employer on the census return. With her was her unmarried 27-year-old daughter, a domestic worker, Hugh Marwick, a 23-year-old ploughman, and 15-year-old Tom Marwick, who was employed as a cattleman. Under another roof lived the Robertson family. 42-year-old William Robertson from Sandwick was the farm’s foreman. With him was his wife Isabella and 12-year-old son James. Four-year-old nephew George Wards was visiting at the time.

Frederick Traill Inkster moved from his father Hugh’s farm at Westness to farm land at Furse and Innister. He married Isabella Craigie, daughter of James Craigie, Claybank, and Isabella Kirkness, Quoyostray. They eventually moved from Wasbister to take over the tenancy of Trumland Home Farm in the early 1900s. When Frederick retired from farming he and Isabella took up residency at Greenfield, between the farm and the pier – that house’s name being the same as that of the farm in Shetland where Frederick was born in September 1868.

1915-16 valuation roll for the Parish of Rousay, showing details for, among other properties, Trumland Farm

In 1922 Trumland Farm was occupied by James Halcro Johnston, his wife Margaret Ritch, and children Robert, James William, & Violet. James was born at Crook, Rendall, in June 1880, the son of farmer Jacob Johnston and Ann Wood who had married in Rousay in December 1875. James & Margaret [pictured below] married in February 1905. She was the daughter of farmer William Ritch, Orquil, Rendall, and Jemima Firth.

Their son James William was well-respected throughout the farming industry. Part of his obituary in the Sunday Herald newspaper, dated September 2001, give us an insight:-

Retired farmer and poultry expert James Johnston, 94, farmed at Newton of Fintray, near Aberdeen, for more than 50 years.

Orkney-born Mr Johnston – known to his relatives in the Orkney tradition as James-William and to his friends as Jimmy – hit the headlines in 1951 when his cross-bred heifer, Kilmeny, won the butchers’ cattle championship at the Scottish National Fatstock Show in Edinburgh and went on to win the reserve supreme championship at the Royal Smithfield Show at Earls Court, London.

He was born in 1907 in a small, two-roomed cottage on the farm of Crook, Rendall, Orkney, where his family had been tenants since 1840, and moved to Trumland on the island of Rousay in 1922 when his father took on the Home Farm. Despite colour blindness, he was naturally artistic and in his younger days painted watercolours which still hang in the homes of friends and family…..

Archer Clouston atop 1st haystack built of square bales at Trumland farm 1958
Trumland farm house & cottage…
…and the Old Mill, photographed in 1994


[All black & white images are courtesy of Tommy Gibson]