Author: Max Fletcher

This picture was taken at a dance after a performance by the Rousay Drama Club in about 1938. The photographer was W. S. Thomson, who worked in Orkney for about 10 years from 1937. The photo originated from Gordie Peterson of Stromness, whose grandparents lived at Westness before taking over the Blossom in the 1930s. Robert Craigie Marwick contributed the accompanying information, and in doing so he added his thanks to Edith Gibson, Burrian, for help in identifying many of the folk.

Front row, from the left:- Robert Johnston. James Mainland, and Hugh Russell.

Second row:- Jim Craigie, Lizzie Craigie, James (Steebly) Craigie, Chrissie Russell,
Hugh Marwick, Hugh Gibson, Maisie Mainland, Peggy Cooper, Rita Shaw,
Cissie Gibson, and half image (unknown).

Third row:- Alice Logie, Charles Logie, John Gibson, Marjory Gibson. James Marwick,
Sadie Gibson, Hugh Craigie, Maggie Grieve, Hugh Robertson,
Ann Lyon, and William Gibson.

Fourth row:- William Craigie, John Mainland, David Benston, James Craigie,
Leonard Marwick, Jim Yorston, Mabel Grieve, Cissie Sinclair,
Sarah Smith, and Edith Gibson.

Back row:- Edwin Moar partly behind curtain, Stanley Moar, Fraser Moar,
James Clouston, Sinclair Craigie, William Moar, Nellie Harcus, Evelyn Pirie,
Jim Gorn, Evelyn Shearer, Thora Kirkness, Anna Reid, Kathleen Gibson
(top of head showing), Alice Cormack, John Shearer (partly concealed),
and Molly Gorn.

My thanks to Tommy Gibson, Brinola, Rousay, for allowing me to reproduce
the document above, which contains….”information supplied by the
late David Mainland, Bridge Street Wynd, Kirkwall
– Born Eynhallow, Orkney, June 1827.”

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Occupation of the old monastic buildings on Eynhallow by Rousay folk is alluded to in John Mooney’s book Eynhallow The Holy Island of the Orkneys:-

……..In digging a hole in one of the divisions of this building, the chapter-house had been made into two apartments by the erection of a division wall, two skeletons were found. The late Sir Victor Horsley, who was staying at Rousay at the time, regarded these as evidence of burials in the days of the monks; but the opinion was expressed to him that the bones were those of islanders who had died in the fever epidemic in the middle of the 19th century; and, after the examination of a skull, he seems to have thought that might have been so. There are, however, facts which prove the contrary. The remains of those who died of the fever were conveyed from the island for burial elsewhere. The families residing there belonged to, or had most of their relatives living in either Rousay or Evie, chiefly in Rousay; and a portion of the old churchyard in the latter island (opposite Eynhallow) was reserved for and known as the Eynhallow graves. People are still alive who knew the islanders who survived the fever (this was written in 1923), and who remember seeing the coffins conveyed across the sound for burial. Each coffin was placed in a boat which was attached by a long tow-line to another boat, rowed by two or more men……..

The 1851 census of Eynhallow tells us that 54-year-old farmer William Mainland and his 53-year-old wife Jean Sinclair were living in the church, or East House as it was called. With them were their six children; John, who was 25; David, 24; William, 21; Mary, 19; Janet, 16; and Ann, 13. Three of them died when the fever struck, and their bodies were interred in the Westside Kirkyard. The following inscription is on the gravestone:

“To Eynhallow folk Janet Mainland who died 1851 aged sixteen years.
William Mainland died 1851 aged 21years.
Jean Sinclair, mother of the above died Jan. 1852 aged 55 years.
William Mainland her beloved husband died Dec. 1870 aged 75 years.”

Let’s join Minnie Russell as she takes us on a beautifully descriptive tour around Rousay. – Reproduced by kind permission of the editors of
The Orkney View from issue number 68: October/November 1996.

STATISTICAL ACCOUNT

ORKNEY PARISHES OF ROUSAY AND EGILSHAY

1795 – 1798

by

The Reverend Mr. JAMES LESLIE

Situation. – This parish is composed of four islands, Rousay, Egilshay, Weir, and Inhallow, and two small holms or uninhabited islands. They are situated about three leagues north-west of the county town, Kirkwall, and lie contiguous to each other.

Rousay. – The largest island of the parish, is altogether one range of hills; and the arable ground is separated from the hill ground by a poor irregular earthen dyke. The hill ground is covered with heath, and contains deep moss. It is a pleasant island, and healthful, and abounds with moor game. In it are abundance of springs of the purest water, and of rivulets which issue from small lakes, of which there are numbers in the island. All around the island is safe harbour for shipping of any burden. The soil is good; and might produce plentiful returns, were it well cultivated. There is a small church, about five miles distant from the manse, dedicated to our Lady. The number of inhabitants is, in this island of Rousay, 772, the youngest child being included.

Egilshay. – Egilshay is a pleasant, low lying island, with a small Gothic church in the west part of the islands, which has been dedicated to St Magnus, the tutelar saint of all Orkney. It has a pyramidical steeple at the west end, and a vaulted quire at the east end, which joins to the body of the church. In Egilshay there is a small lake of fresh water; and the soil is very good, and fit for culture; but it is poorly cultivated. There is a small bay of shell sand, of the best kind, on the west side of this island, and a large track of sand on the north side, with much bent [stiff grass], and many rabbits. Sponge is cast on shore in October, in great abundance, about this island. The number of inhabitants in this island of Egilshay is 210, the youngest child being included.

Weir Island. – Weir Island is a small low lying island, not so large as is Egilshay. The soil is the same, and the culture very poor, and the crops unequal to what might be expected from proper management. There is a ruinous church here, but no steeple; and there are the vestiges of a fortification on a rising ground, a little from the place where the church stands. There is moss ground in a part of this island; and many seals are to be seen on the rocks at the west end of this island. The number of inhabitants is 65, the youngest child included.

Inhallow Island. – Inhallow Island is very small, but very pleasantly situated, being overlooked by the hills and headlands of mainland, on the south, and of Rousay, on the north. The soil is good, but not skilfully managed. The number of inhabitants is 25, the youngest child being included. The whole united parish of Rousay and Egilshay includes in it 1072 persons. In 1755, the numbers were rated at 978.

Manners. – There is no difference in manners and habits between the cottager and the master of the farm. The master often turns to cottager, and the cottager sometimes becomes the master. They all take social snuff together. Their houses and their furniture are exactly the same. They all, without distinction, sit at the oar in their boats; and at land they all jointly perform the same labour and work. Youth and old age constitute the only distinction of rank. The old often are so reduced, that they betake themselves to going from house to house for sustenance; and then they are well received; and it is not accounted beggary when they do so.

Boats. – In Rousay they keep 24 boats, in Egilshay 12 boats, in Weir 6 boats, in Inhallow 2 boats, making in all 44 boats, each being about the value of 3l. Sterling. With these they used to go to fish; but, for some years past, the fishing has failed entirely.

Cattle. – They plough with horses of a small size, which are brought from Strathnaver when two years old, and some Shetland horses. Three horses, or, at the most, four horses are put to the plough. These horses are, of value, from 3l. Sterling to 4l. never hardly above 5l. Sterling. There are in the parish upwards of 200 ploughs. There are a prodigious number of black cattle, no less than 2500, almost all cows, from which they make grease butter. The value of the cows may be from 2l. to 2l. 10s. hardly ever 3l. Sterling.

Sheep. – The sheep in this parish have fine wool, and, for the most part, two lambs at a birth. The sheep, when sold, cost 4s. a head, or thereabout. The number of small swine is considerable, as are the flocks of geese. The swine sell for 3s. or 4s. and the geese at 1s. There are no mice on the island of Inhallow, and no rats in any one of the other islands of the parish. – There is a great quantity of kelp made annually in this parish from May to July. The people employ themselves at this work. There is a little woollen stuff made, and some linen, but to no amount. These they trade with to Shetland, and sell at the great annual market at Kirkwall.

MARRIED IN ROUSAY

by

Maggie Ann Clouston

(Mrs Maggie Ann Clouston was for quite a few years Orkney’s oldest inhabitant, living to the age of 109. She was born at Claybank [on the bank of the burn almost opposite Vacquoy] in Rousay in 1880 into a large family*, in which everyone had to work from a young age, and all her life she enjoyed being active. Visiting her to record an interview when she was over 100 was a special pleasure. She would sit you down and make a cup of tea and cut a large slice of her birthday cake, and then gladly recall bygone days with great delight and good humour. This is part of a recording made on her 104th birthday with Kathryn Gourlay for Radio Orkney. (It is reproduced here with permission from the editors of The Orkney View, in which the article appeared.)

I was nineteen when I married and he was twelve years older than me – old men’s the best! Never marry a fisherman – it’s a hard life when they’re at sea and coarse weather comes and peedie boats: very, very worrying. Waiting for them all the time and hearing they’re coming in on a very coarse day and hauling their boat to a better piece and you hear them coming and you’re glad to see them.

He was not a very strong man, he didn’t last a long while – consumption was rife in those days but they can master it now. It was enormous, the number of folk that had consumption, and I was at the houses with it and I said I’m surely immune from it for I never took it, working so much among it, you see.

He went out every day; every morning he rose with the tide. When the tide was in they had to get up and go to sea, and they were small boats. We sold some of the fish and dried them on the dykes and pressed them, and we sold them in Kirkwall. Salted fish – the merchant bought them and sold them out of Kirkwall. Lobsters were very cheap in my young days. Lobsters were only a shilling, and they got eleven pence sometimes. That was the way we were kept down, you see. We could dress ourselves and go to kirk too, all the same.

We had a set of clothes we kept aside and only put on on a Sunday for going to the kirk. What a grand day we had – everybody was walking then. There were no cars or anything; everybody was walking. What a grand time we had on the road, all speaking together! Fourteen miles was the size of Rousay right round it, and I’ve been round it on a Sunday, every bit of it and at my auntie’s home at night for tea and milking the kye then. We’d go home at eight o’clock, running pieces of the road to get home on time then as well as now. Far better – dances at night, and all. And it was spoken about for a while. Now they never speak about a dance, it’s just that common.

My father was the only fiddler on Rousay for a great while, and he taught the other ones to play. He was a grand fiddler; he just fairly fitted into the dances and the time. Polkas and Schottisches and the Four-Couple Reel and the Flowers of Edinburgh. There were dances that came in and they learnt them from Kirkwall: Rory O’ More and Strip the Willow and the Queen Victoria.

We had a grand walk at our wedding, everybody went out with their partners and my father was there with the fiddle playing and played the whole road home and we were going with him – I suppose we did maybe fully two miles. We married in the house, decorated up for it. Plenty of whisky and plenty of ale and plenty of cakes and plum pudding and sweeties. We had our dance and we had our walk – the Quadrilles and the Lancers – that’s dancing! – and they take the sweep and everybody takes hands and they sweep in and that’s good dancing!

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* Maggie Ann’s parents were Magnus Craigie and Ellen Cooper. Ellen’s parents were David Cooper and Douglas Craigie [Douglas being a popular female name in those days.] Ellen was born in 1859 when they were living at Sound in Egilsay, and was the eldest of their fourteen children.

Maggie Ann’s father Magnus married Ellen in 1879 and between 1880 and 1898 they had thirteen children. Magnus was the youngest of seven children born to Alexander Craigie of Whoam, later Falquoy, and Ann Murray, whose parents were Magnus Murray and Janet Robertson of Tofts, Quandale.

Maggie Ann married John Clouston, son of Magnus Clouston and Jane Craigie of Tou [later Shalter] in 1899 and they had two children, John and Maggie Jean.

Maggie Ann was born on 17 May 1880 – and passed away on 23 February 1989, just ten weeks or so short of her 109th birthday.

Alexander Rufus Marwick

[This article was printed in issue No 75 of The Orkney View, Dec 1997/Jan 1998.
My thanks to the editors Alastair and Anne Cormack, and of course
Tommy Gibson himself for allowing its reproduction.]

The first tenant I mind in Westness was widow Craigie, and in the farm, Archibald Hume. The first tenant I mind in Saviskaill was John lnkster who afterwards became the proprietor of the estate of Saviskaill. The first tenants I mind in Langskaill were David Gibson and William Harcus. In Faraclett was I McKay, in Scockness was Hugh Marwick, in Banks, Sourin was James Mainland, in Knarston G W Craigie, in Avelshay Leslie Mainland, in Trumbland James Yorston, in Nears William Craigie, in Banks (F) Alexander Mainland, in Corse James Yorston.

From the dyke of Grind to the Lobust I remember forty families, all of whom had land more or less. On that land together with the hill privilege they kept seventy horse, 220 cattle and between 600 and 700 sheep. All the land at that time was ploughed with the old side-plough with one arm, and drawn with three or four horses. At that time there was not a cart in the island, nor a harrow with iron teeth. The first two-armed plough I remember was on the farm of Saviskaill, and the first cart belonged to Drummond Louttit on the farm of Upper Quandale. The only crops grown at that time were oats and bere and a few potatoes. Every house also had a large cabbage yard, which was very useful for the family use and also for the cattle.

In the summer the hill swarmed with horses, cattle, sheep, pigs and geese. The sheep were divided into flocks or haants, as they were called. They came to the shore in the winter to eat the seaweed when the sea was down, and they went to the hill when it began to flow. There was more beef and mutton used in one year than is now used in ten years.

The first church l attended was the church on the Westside. The minister’s name was Paterson who preached in the Egilshay Church one Sabbath and in the Westside on the other, till the Established Church was built in the Brinian in 1815. There was one parochial school in the island and one Society school. In the parochial school was Mr Leask, and in the Society school was Mr Smeaton.

In my boyhood there were some men belonging to this island that went to Shetland every summer for the purpose of bartering goods. They gave linen and other goods for bed rugs, ponies and gin. They would have given fifteen shillings for a fine Shetland pony. The boats that they went with would have been from sixteen to twenty feet of keel rigged with a large square sail. The time they would be away would be about three weeks. Sometimes they were much annoyed by French pirates during the French war. About the end of the French war Britain was so short of men that they had to press men for the army and navy. There was some very exciting scenes come under my observation trying to avoid the press gang. There were some young men of Wasbister who had to sleep in the Haas of Gamlie, the rocks behind Stennisgorn, for safety all night. I knew a man belonging to Egilshay who slept in the middle of a stack of oats all night, for the whole of one winter, in a room which he had prepared for himself.

The principal means which the young men had of earning money was the whale fishing at Davis Strait, and some of them went to Hudson Bay service. The old women’s earning was the spinning of lint. The young women’s earnings was of plaiting straw. The farmers‘ summer work was the making of kelp.

In the first of my minding Christmas was kept as follows. Every house that grew crops brewed some ale for Christmas. On Christmas Eve every house killed a sheep, but they had neither white bread nor tea. Their bread was oatcakes and sowan scones. When they got cod in the Christmas week they baked a cake of bere meal and cod livers which was as good as, and liked as much as, any shortbread of the present day. The young men played football until dark, then they went to a fiddler’s house and danced until twelve at night. New Year’s Day was as well kept. On New Year’s Eve young men went from door to door singing the New Year’s Song, whereupon the door was quickly opened and the singers were set down to the best in the house. It was looked upon as a token of respect to those whom they visited, but ill-loved neighbours were general y passed over.

In 1801 a ship was wrecked below Saviskaill under ballast (pink granite). In 1807 a ship was wrecked below Langskaill loaded with lint. In I816 a ship was wrecked in the Klink Geos in the Lean under timber.

The grouse were very plentiful then, much more so or what they are at the present day. Whenever a bull got mad it was put to the hill, making it not a very safe place to go without some weapon of defence. I once heard of a daring adventure which a man had with a bull in the Rousay Hills. The man was at the hill in search of his horse when the bull saw him, above the Muckle Water. The man ran to the soft bog or quag, as it is called. The bull followed him into the quag and stuck. The man, John Craigie of Claybank, drew his big knife and killed the bull.

About the commencement of the century a child of the name of Mowat, two years of age, strayed from the house of Myars in Sourin in a thick mist. They looked for him for two days in vain. A dog belonging to Furse in Wasbister was missed the same day the child went away. The dog came home the third day and got some food. He went away as soon as he had taken it. He was followed by the servant man. The dog ran to a pigsty on the Brings. When the servant man came to the sty the dog made for springing on him. He looked inside and saw the child alive and well. He took it home with him and went and told its parents who gladly came for it. He lived in Rousay to an old age. I knew him well. The most remarkable thing about it was that before the dog would venture home for food he sent all the swine about a mile away from the sty in which the child was found.

In those days superstition prevailed among people to a great extent. But when the home brewn ale was less used their superstition died away.”

LETTERS TO MEN AT THE POSTS

The undelivered letters kept so carefully by the Hudson’s Bay Company do not include very many addressed to regular employees of the continental fur trade. As these men were usually long-term employees, who rarely deserted to find other work or left in the middle of their contracts, their whereabouts were not often in doubt and their personal mail usually reached them. Letters to them from Europe normally arrived in North America – as did the men themselves – across the north Atlantic Ocean through Hudson Bay to York Factory rather than by the south Atlantic route around Cape Horn to the Pacific Ocean. Columbia Department postings that required travel with the fur brigades by way of the river routes and mountain passes, however, effectively separated the men from the east by distance and time, and the chance of mail not reaching them was greater.

The letters to these men show concerns similar to those in many other undelivered letters. In a few cases, because of the longer career spans of the Company men, we have more information about their lives and are able of offer more detailed narratives, such as the tale of Chief Factor John Tod and his several wives. As Orkneymen are as plentiful in this sample as they were in the regular ranks of the Company’s employees, we have been able to access the excellent records of these island people to offer information on their lives after they left the Company service.

88 HUGH MOUAT:  Your Mother is but tendar and very lonsom for yow always and hopes that yow will come home at the eand of your contrake if the lord spares yow to serv the time

Hugh Mouat joined the Company in December 1850, coming out on the annual ship to York Factory in the fall of 1851 as a labourer and travelling overland to work at Fort Vancouver. Letters were sent from home at the time of the year when Scots celebrate Hogmanay and try to be the first visitor in neighbouring homes. Such letters – like the one below – were filled with the many activities of the extended kin and friendship groups of Orkney. Hugh’s friend, John Inkster, was most concerned with keeping him up to date on the marriageable women.

Mr Hugh Mouat, Fort Vancouver Or else where, Columbia, Care of Secretary of the Honourable Hudson’s Bay Company

December 31 1851

Dear brother I take the plasant opurtunity of writing you this few lines to let you know that we are all in good health at prasant thank god for his mercies hoping and earnestly wishing this will find you the same[.] your uncle of e[y]nhallow and his wife and famely is well as yet we should be thankful for his mercies one and all of us[.] James Inkster my brother went of[f ] last march he went of to shields and engaged their with a baroque bound for quebec[.] he was a voyage their and back to shields again and then he left the ship[.] he was about a week their engaged with a brig going up the mediterranean a 6 month voyage[.] your mother and sisters is all well and Cirstinu is maried this winter and we have all got a weding at inisgar [Innister?][.] there was not many people at it all the people of cogar [Koogrew?] Jane Flett and James Craigie of hatherhall [Heatherhall] your aunt of grain John Inkster and peter from that was all from e[y]nhallow[.] this winter there is ben alterations is in e[y]nhallow[.] this winter there is ben a fever en it is been in william mainlands house[.] Jennet mainland left this world on sabbath night and william about 2 weeks after and it is been in william louttits house and harrjut is left this this [repetition] world so we have great reason to be very thantful that we are still spared a little longer in this sinful world[.] that should be a warning to one and all of us how uncertain our time is here[.] John mowat your brother is still unmarried yet[.] he is finely well in health[.] James Inkster wife and family is in good health at preasant thank god for it[.] John Inkster of pliverhall [Ploverhall] is home this winter[.] young John Inkster of e[y]nhallow was at caithness all the summer at the herring fishing and I had 3£ of wages[.] david and william mainland was to[o] and I was in skeal [Skaill] in sanwick [Sandwick] all the harvest i had 30 s[hillings] of mony for the harvest and i have been in gorn this two winters and Peter is in whis[.] Margaret Craigie is still in gorn and she is finely well her mother and all her sisters thy all put their kind compliments to you[.] margaret craigie of knarston she is not married yet[.] she put her compliments to the[e][.] she has no sweethart now atal simpson is still unmaried yet but he is not going to her at all – John Cl[o]uston girl is always coming To us she was used to do[.] magnus and bettsey and their mother is all well and magnus was at the herrin .shing in burra[y][.] hugh craigie of Death [Deith] and isabella and mary and John is all well at preasant[.] John Inkster and Jane craigie of gorn is both in good health[.] James craigie of blackhamers [Blackhamar] and barbara craigie of torbittail [Turbitail] is bucked [booked] but not married[.] all her sisters is married but Jane elin an of seventyfiver isabella a fine young lad in kirkwall – magnus cl[o]uston and John Inkster goes from the house every night to the girls[.] a fine lightsome winter in wesbyster [Wasbister][.] there is no fis[h] for John Cl[o]uston and hugh mowat[.] If you see william craagie [Craigie] margaret’s brother you will tell him to send a letter for it is 2 years since they received one from him[.] John craigie of hillion [Hullion] is married with sarah sinclair[.] John sinclair of news [Newhouse?] is built a new house but he is not married[.] George Leonard and margaret clouston is finely well and they have got another daughter[.] James Leonard is home this winter[.] cecelia is finely well[.] Margaret gibson flintersby is married this winter with James stenston a very grand wedding all the pecks of the island[.] you will send home all the news you ave if you got safe to calombia[.] I Have no more to say at preasant what remains your dear friend John Inkster

My Direction is
Mr John Inkster
E[y]nhallow to the care of Mr Hug [crossed out]
Mr Hugh Charles Evie
By kirkwall

Inkster was informative on whether female acquaintances were booked but not yet married, meaning that their intended fiancés had booked or arranged with a minister to have the banns of their marriage proclaimed in church. The “booking night” was an important one, because in an era before engagements it was the first indication that a marriage would take place.

The fact that John Inkster’s brother, James, had within the previous year sailed to both Quebec and the Mediterranean, indicates the wide seafaring experience of the Orkneymen. They voyaged around the world but still liked to keep in touch with the doings of the folks back home. Hugh’s brother, John, also wrote to wish him well on New Year’s Day.

Mr Hugh Mouat, Fort Vancouver, Or else where, Columbia, care of Secretary of the Honourable Hudson Bay Company, London

Instar [Innister] Rousay Janury the 1 1852

Dear and loving brother I Embrace this oppurinntunity to let you know that we are all well at presant thanks be to god for it[.] Earistly woshing that this few lins yallaghe [crossed out] find yow in the same[.] we recived your wallcome latter the 23 october and wase glade to har that you ware wall[.] we recived your 2 latters and the bill that yow sent bout the Mony is not dra[w]n yet[.] your sister cirsty is got Married this wonter to man his name is william lutted [Loutit] and thy stop in firt[h] in chambar at preesant[.] he blong to rendal[l] and James simson and Markret gibson flintury is Married and black hammery [Blackhamar] barbery cray [Barbara Crey] is Married[.] this wonter we hade very good harren fishing and fine crop and it bene a fine wontar what is past[.] I have no pertlager News at presant but that we are all on the usualy way as when yow lefte us and the people tow send thir cind love to yow and Margret corger sisey vakrey send thir cind love to yow[.] so loving brother your sistars an all the famely of our others house send thire kind love to yow wishes yow well and I ame gone to stope till yow come home and get shire of my widden yet[.] cirsty widden was at Instar [Innister] 20 day before I rite yow this latter a fine littele Markes.
So dear and loving bother your sistar Elisa [&] brother send thir cind love to yow and hopes that yow will sike the lard ware ever yow gow as he is to be found in all place[.] rembar ashes [Zacchaeus] when he was found clim up the sishomery [sycamore] tree sicking [seeking] Jasus and hopes that yow will Make the rote [root] of a tre your closet[.] dear brother my earnes prayer is for yow and I hope yow would pray for me so that if we niver Mate on earth we Miht all Mite at our father right hand[.] so bloveing brother I am gone to klose this latter now with a few wards[.] your Mother is but tendar and very lonsom for yow alway and hopes that yow will come home at the eand of your contrake if the lord spares yow to serv the time
So loving brother yow will rembar your Mother And brother and sistars
Til dith

John Mowat

————————

After being promoted to steward at the Vancouver depot in 1854, Hugh Mouat was still at Fort Vancouver receiving wages in 1860, far from his “tendar and very lonsom” mother.

Nicol Mainland was the son of James Mainland and Christian Louttit of Cotafea and he was born on June 9th 1800. In 1830 he married Margaret Louttit, daughter of William Louttit and Isabella Craigie of Faraclett. She was the twin of Janet and they were born on January 19th 1803. Between 1831 and 1846 Nicol and Margaret raised a family of seven children.

The following tale of an incident involving Nicol, which occurred here in Rousay many years ago, was written by Robert Craigie Marwick. My thanks to the editors of The Orkney View, Alastair and Anne Cormack, for allowing its reproduction.

…………………………

It was close and airless in the box bed and old Nicol could not get over to sleep. From time to time, Maggie nudged him and muttered sleepily about lying still. He knew it was not just the warmth of the night that was keeping him awake; he could not stop thinking about the events of the day that was now dying in the western sky.

The day had started uneventfully enough. While his son had gone off to the hill for another load of peats, Nicol busied himself building up the stack with the last load brought home the previous day. It was a warm, sunny day, warm enough for him to shed his heavy jacket. The sun felt good on his old bones as he piled up the peats. In the afternoon he harnessed the old mare and yoked her to the scuffler. It was a good day for dealing with the weeds in the neep field down by the shore. The old mare’s slow and steady pace would suit him fine on such a warm day.

He had taken no more than two or three wups with the scuffler when he spotted the stranger coming along the shore. By the time Nicol turned towards the shore again, the man was standing on the end rig waiting for him.

“It’s a grand day,” said the stranger as Nicol reached him. Nicol turned the mare into the next drill before answering.

“Aye, hid’s ower weel,” he replied, at the same time pulling his pipe and a stump of black twist from his pocket.

“Here, have some of mine,” insisted the stranger, offering Nicol a full pouch. The old man declined politely and began searching for his knife with which to cut up his small bit of twist.

“I see you haven’t much left so try a fill of mine. It’s good stuff. I’m sure you’ll like it.” He again held out the pouch. Nicol took his first good look at the stranger. His shiny skipped cap, his clean-cut appearance, and clear, blue eyes showed him to be a man of the sea. Nicol liked the look of him.

“Hid’s guid o’ thee,” said the old man. “Mibbe I’ll hae a fill right enoff,” and took the pouch. When his pipe was filled and going well, Nicol nodded appreciatively to the stranger and turned again to his work. He would have liked to know who the stranger was but considered it would be an impertinence to ask straight out. The man would tell him in his own good time, he reckoned.

As Nicol prepared to set off up the drill, the stranger asked if he might walk with him for a little while. “Fine that,” replied the old man. Up and down, up and down the drills they trudged, with the stranger saying very little apart from an occasional remark on how well the crops were looking and a question on whether Nicol had anyone to help him with the work on the farm. After a couple of hours the stranger said he would need to be on his way and held out his hand. “I’m glad to have met you,” he said as he grasped Nicol’s hand firmly in both of his.

“Hid’s been lightsome right enoff,” Nicol was surprised to find himself saying, being well aware that very few words had passed between them as they walked up and down behind the scuffler. Still, he had enjoyed the younger man’s quiet company.

“Take care of yourself,” said the stranger. Then he smiled and turned towards the shore. The old man, with a puzzled expression, watched him go. Just a friendly smile, he told himself, and yet……A hundred yards away the stranger turned and waved. Nicol raised his hand, and then, turning to the task in hand, clicked his tongue and the old mare moved off.

That evening after tea, Nicol took his stick and set off on the short walk across the fields for his usual midweek visit to the shop at Hullion. His neighbour, Jeems o’ News, who ferried mails and passengers across Evie Sound each day, was already there chatting to the shop-keeper. The latter, when he saw old Nicol coming in, reached beneath the counter.

“I daresay this is whit thoo’re efter,” he said as he handed Nicol an ounce of black twist. Nicol paid for the tobacco and proceeded to fill his pipe.

“Thoo wid be plaised tae see thee viseetor the day, Nicol,” remarked Jeems. “I saa him gaan ap and doon the neep field wae thee a long while this efterneun.”  Nicol made no reply until his pipe was going well.

“Hid wis ower weel, bit best kens wha hid wis.”

“Did thoo no ken wha hid wis?” asked Jeems in surprise, and when he saw the blank look on his old friend’s face he realised he would have to explain matters carefully.

“I took thee viseetor ower fae Evie and I kent wha hid wis when he asked me whar thoo lived. He’s the spittan image o’ his uncle, Jock Harrold, that I worked wae for a term in Egilsay afore he set aff for Australia.”

“Harrold, did thoo say? Wis that……wis that Isabel’s boy? Wis that wha hid wis?” asked Nicol, incredulously.

“Aye, Nicol, that’s wha hid wis. Isabel Harrold’s boy. Thee son, Jeemie.”

Jeemie, thought Nicol. The bairn Isabel Harrold had borne him. It must be fifty year, aye, maybe one or two more. Isabel Harrold. My, what a bonny lass she had been with that head of red hair and that smile of hers. The very same smile, he now realised, as he had seen that afternoon.

In response to Nicol’s urgent questioning, Jeems o’ News had told him about taking Jeemie back to Evie in the late afternoon and when last seen he had been making for Aikerness. It took a little persuasion for Jeems to agree to cross the Sound with Nicol that evening in the faint hope of catching up on Jeemie before he got too far. At Aikerness they were told he had set off for Kirkwall right away on the hired bike on which he had arrived, saying he planned to catch the six o’clock steamer for Leith. Wearily they trudged back to the shore and, without a word being spoken, set sail for home.

Now, in the silence of the night, Nicol’s thoughts took him back fifty years to that time when he had fee’d at Faraclett and had first met Isabel Harrold. She had lived with her mother on the little croft of Peeno up by the Suso Burn. Fondly, he recalled the joys of that summer and the sweet sorrow of parting when he left in the spring for a season at the whaling in the Davis Straits. It was only when he returned that he heard about the bairn born during his absence, and the death of Isabel’s mother shortly afterwards. He had listened, with ever increasing anger, to an account of Isabel being summoned to appear before the kirk session to be given a tongue lashing by the minister. An elder who had been present had later told Nicol it was the most vicious he had ever heard. Isabel had not been there to tell him anything of these events for she and the bairn had left the island after her searing kirk session ordeal, and before his return. Gone to Leith, some claimed, where she was said to have relatives. She had never returned to the island, but must have told the boy about his parentage and he had returned. Nicol smiled contentedly in the dark.

After another session at the whaling, Nicol had fee’d again at Faraclett, and a year later had married Maggie, a daughter of the house. She had been a good wife to him all these years, and he had no regrets, he told himself.

As the dawn of a new day dispelled the long darkness of the night, Nicol drifted over into a blissful sleep and into a dream in which a younger self frolicked with a smiling, red-headed lass on the summer banks of the Suso burn.

COURT BOOK OF ORKNEY AND SHETLAND – 1613

[Extracts concerning Rousay]

Vigesimo primo Januarii 1613

Tailyeour contra Flawis

The quhilk day George Traill in Westnes becam cautioner and souertie for Thomas Flawis in Wosbuster that he shall not molest nor trubbill James Tailyeour thair nor na utheris his majesteis lieges nor subjectis within the cuntrey of Orknay, bot that he sall observe and keip his majesteis peace with all and everie ane of thame under the pain of 1 li.; and the said Thomas actit him to warrand and releive his said cautioner of the premissis.

Flawis contra Tailyeour

The quhilk day Edward Alschunder in Rowsay becom cautioner and souertie for James Tailyeour in Wosbuster that he sall not molest nor trubbill Thomas Flawis thair nor na utheris his majesteis lieges within the cuntrey of Orknay, bot that he sall observe and keip his majesteis peace with all and everie ane of thame under the pain of 1 li.; and the said James actit him for releif of his said cautioner.

Edward Garsetter contra Henrie Alschunder

The quhilk day Henrie Alschunder in Langskaill in Rowsay, being accused for the hurting and wounding of Edward Garsetter in Sorwick upone the face with a wand upone the … day of Junii last wes, to the effusioun of his bluid, quha being personallie present denyet; thairfoir the judge referrit the mater to the knawledge of ane assyse of the persones following, viz –

Assissa

William Irowing of Sabay, chancelar
William Sinclair of Grenwall
Edward Sinclair of Esinquoy
William Irowing, baillie of Schapinschay
William Beg in Horraldsgarth
Nicoll Sinclair in Kirkwall
Magnus Hardie thair
Thomas Louttit in St Olais parochin
Harie Spence in Skapa
William Chalmer in Kirkwall
William Brown in Orphair
Johne Gareoch in Paplay
William Corrigill in Harray
Walter Lachtane in Holme
Robert Cragie in Bruch in Sandwick

Quhilkis persones being chosen, suorne and admittit, past altogidder furt of court, ryplie advysit inenterit agane, fand and delyverit the said Henrie to have strukin the said Edward a blae straik on the face with a wand and nocht to have bled him, remitting the ryot to the judge, absolvis the said Henrie of the bluid and condemns him in an unlaw for the ryott; quhilk determinatioun the judge acceptit and decernit him in the sowme of  X li. money for the said ryot, quhilk the dempster gave for dome.

Wand – fishing rod
Dempster – court official who formally pronounced the sentence
Dome – judgement
Vigesimo primo – Twenty-first